This is the third year of Ghesquière’s work at the House of Louis Vuitton and he’s delivering his most focused-on collection:that of comfort and salesbility. The basic idea seemed to be a mixture of 90’s easy and parisian chic,even though nothing actually elevated the collection to the system of chicness and elegance.The utility value was far more present that any quest for inspired outfits or exploring the vast heritage of Louis Vutton. The result?Some pretty coats,stylish accessories, and then yawn.And a magnificent venue.
At Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld chose to deal with genre issues and the overall controversy that took place in France regarding education policies,thus adding a playful twist to the show.It had to be a very ”french” one, viewed as such (thus acquiring its logical basis) by a ‘foreign eye’.He is not french himself, with that allowing him to pursue the ”french facade” of fashion further,avoiding any chauvinistic references that would have cost him.. The whole idea of a ”brasserie” and the resulting apparel design were to showcase the idea: ”Its french-oozing what you expect from me? That i am giving you in especially high doses’-almost to the point of grotesque!Karl Lagerfeld is a designer all Hedis’,Marcs’ Ricardos’ should stop and take lessons from,especially in terms of masterly increasing sales with excellent RTW pieces,as he’s in a way ‘educating its own clientele.Well,the catwalk combination of prints wasn’t always to my liking but there were some strikingly great basic separates i could built my wardrobe over them,let alone the accessories.In overall,Karl’s genius staged a show for his followers making it loud and clear that it should be viewed under the idea of a francophone vocabulary used by a German(or a Chinese).And it worked.
Once upon a time Hedi Slimane was a promising young designer that created menswear stylish enough for women to also crave it.All that under the condition that clients were sized ”zero”,men looking like boys and female clients looking like high school girls, respectively.His work at Saint Laurent reflect the worst case scenario of his boyish-silhouette obsession which is..pure trashy and overtly sexual.Any increase of sales is a here-and-now issue with garments looking so cheap its hard to imagine them as Saint Laurent future classics.Designed to be discarded season after season,the philosophy behind Slimane’s talent less approach to RTW is putting the House of Saint Laurent to a process of a”fashion euthanasia”.His RTW fall 2015 is not ever ”hooker chic” a la Courney Love,its pure trashy outfits and hideous make up.I hope it gets forgotten soon enough.
There are plenty of reasons i find myself biased when it comes to Prada since it’s hard for me to reason or justify most of her collections as something chic and worth-existing in the fashion world. This time,with sales decreasing,Prada worked with 50’s /70’s shapes and pastels (seen that before) as well as synthetic fabrics (nylon,neoprene) that made silhouettes look unnatural and cheap.The pants were so ill fitted that made me thing that,yes, they were made non chic on purpose!Using strategically placed adornments,the designer made dresses look interesting but seek no further than that.The accessories were brilliant,as always, sealing my idee fixe that Prada would flourish as an accessories’ designer.But just that,thank you very much.
Alessandro Michele’s Gucci show was a debut and one much expected.Still, there was no effort from the designer to meet any anticipations at all or constructing a personal sartorial vocabulary that would enable him to elevate Gucci’s legacy to new (and modern) heights.“I love the idea that a dress has a memory,” Michele himself stated,yet his work seemed to have no past,let alone a future.There is nothing from the archives,” he boasted later on backstage,not realizing perhaps that..yes,this was exactly the problem, not the solution!Gucci is an iconic brand with strong aesthetics and a silhouette that varied from ultra sexy to Giannini’s subtle sensuality.Instead,we were presented with a collection that clearly aimed to a much younger audience,with pleats,shapeless dresses and a series of ill fitted tuxedos that made Slimane’s Saint Laurent look almost successful..And that is not an euphemism.