The Evolution of Haute Couture-Jeffrey Felner,Monsieur X and Maria Aristidou discuss the future of Haute Couture

1951. Christian Dior. Silk taffeta evening gown w/ jewel @ bust worn with opera length evening gloves. Paris

1951. Christian Dior. Silk taffeta evening gown w/ jewel @ bust worn with opera length evening gloves. Paris

Haute Couture has always been,by definition, a matter of exquisite design,excellent stitching and taking care of individual clients’needs.’Haute Couture’ is also a term that enjoys protection of the French Law,since the Chamber of Commerce and Industry in Paris determine which fashion houses are eligible to be ‘ haute couture houses’,with this privilege being strictly protected by the Chambre Syndicale.Generally,we find that in order for an atelier to use the term ‘couture’,there must be : ” a couture fashion house that creates unique pieces designed to directly fit on a client’s body or on a dress form replicating hers, with a number of individual fittings being carried out on each client. They must have an atelier in Paris, with at least 20 full time employees, and the fashion house must present a minimum of two 25–piece collections to the Paris press each year.”

Impressive.But,in the era of fashion shows’ live transmission via web and with trends being originating through Instagram “influencers” and pop culture,is there place for Haute Couture to serve its elitist purpose?There is,we think.Karl Lagerfeld describes this evolution as a matter of just changing times:“There is now a different kind of couture for what different circumstances permit. Luxury ready-to-wear is not so far from what couture used to be … The new couture clients are beautiful, young. We have Russians, Indians, Chinese, South Americans. Women from the Gulf countries don’t even come to Paris; the première flies the collections to them.”Can that be Haute Couture? We asked three friends ( and mostly)fashion insiders for their view over this interesting yet critical issue-the future of Haute Couture.

Jeffrey Felner:

”As long as there are those of extreme wealth there will always be Haute Couture. The question is what will Haute Couture look like in generations to come and who will be responsible for carrying the torch. IMHO the future is not in the hands of a Raf but in the hands of Vauthier, Lemaire, Saab and Valli as it they who understand and remain committed to the tenets and practices of the craft.”

 (JF is the international fashion editor for the examiner.com as well as a book reviewer for the New York Journal of Books with the focus being on all aspects of fashion and style.)

 

Monsieur X:

”Some brands like JP Gautier stop ready-to-wear to focus on haute couture only, which appears to be much more profitable.Although Haute Couture is not always lucrative, it offers a few brands a worldwide recognition and becomes attractive to Middle East, Russian and emerging market countries clientele.Thanks to these new customers, young brands newly labelled as haute couture brands, start becoming profitable.Today, fashion houses move to the most important capital cities in the world, in order to establish closer ties with their customers.Haute couture goes on evolving with a new generation of designers and keep on attracting journalists and bloggers. It definitly needs to go on seducing this clientele to continue and make people dream.”

(Monsieur X

(.Monsieur X’s goal is to make discover or rediscover forgotten or badly represented artists.Specialized in the world of Luxury and Fashion, Monsieur X has collaborated with the following brands Dior Fine Jewellery, Chanel Fine Jewellery, Cartier, Boucheron, Chaumet, Kenzo, Céline,  Fendi, Balmain and also the young talented designer Alexis Mabille.)

 

Maria Aristidou:

”Nowadays, even though financial crisis forced many Haute Couture designers to either close down their ateriers or make a 360o diversion to Ready to Wear, I still believe that Haute Couture is surviving.  Maybe on a smaller scale but definatley it is not vanishing.  Yes, Haute Couture is that special creation, the unique piece that is designed for a client’s figure with a special care, hand made, hand embroideries, etc…but that is its whole beauty and magic!!!.I still believe that there is a demand for it even worldwide economy goes through tough times.”

(Fashion designer in both men and women wear. http://www.mariaristidou.com Her last project was a Limited Edition Scarf Line A/W 2014-15. She is now working on her next capsule collections as well as for the collaboration with LIVE AID Symphony Orchestra at the at the SGM Conference Center Roma for a charity fashion show in 2016.)

 

 

The magical world of wardrobe stylist Anna Katsanis-An interview

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Proudly presenting Anna Katsanis a renowned wardrobe stylist with a signature ‘look’ or approach to fashion apparel that make her collaborations stand out for their innovating look and chic aesthetics.Anna Katsanis is a ny based wardrobe stylist whose interest in fashion came at a young age from her love of art and design. She received her degree from F.I.T in Fashion Merchandising Management & Advertising & Marketing Communications. Anna got her start interning under editors in the fashion departments of some of the most coveted magazines in ny. Anna has styled high fashion editorials for several international publications of Vogue, Elle, Marie Claire, Tatler, L’Officiel. Her naturalistic approach to wardrobe styling is inspired by making women feel that fashion is both approachable & wearable. She is inspired by all things glamour and a love of vintage fashion & design. Anna is currently the merchandise editor at IN NY Magazine. Her e-commerce client includes Century 21 department stores. She has worked with celebrities from Lindsay Lohan, Paris Hilton, Atlanta De Cadenet, Ivanka Trump, Li Bing Bing, Ezra Miller, Paul Dano, Bethenny Frankel, Elisabeth Rohm, and artists such as Natalia Kills, Cults, Sons & Keri Hilson.Here she engages herself to the Sybilia questionnaire-and we feel privileged for that!

-What mostly influenced you to get involved with fashion/art?

It started first with my love for illustration. I would draw portraits, and sketch fashion croquis and clothing from a young age. I attended the Cooper Union School of Art for weekend classes when I was 12 and was exposed to all kinds of art from 2 & 3 dimensional design, to large scale sculptures, painting, etc., which continued throughout high school. I was obsessed with art and fashion, which lead me to FIT.
One day a fashion editor from Elle Magazine came to speak to our class about her job and from then on I knew I wanted to learn more so I applied for an internship in their fashion department. The rest was history.

-How you will describe your personal aesthetics/vision?
I have a definite appreciation for cinema and have been greatly influenced by both movies and music. I love the 40’s, 50’s, 60’s, 70’s. When researching for a photoshoot, for me it’s all about the character, and who is the person behind this story. Also I love to approach styling that is both approachable and attainable for women. I love mixing more whimsical pieces with more chic/ classic pieces because I feel like women should have fun with what they wear and not take themselves too seriously.

Is there someone you’d like to do/work for and haven’t done it so far?

I would love to collaborate with photographers Sofia Sanchez & Mauro Mongiello, & Miles Aldridge. I greatly admire their work and vision & would love to work with them.

Are there any contemporary (or older) creatives that inspire you?

I am incredibly inspired by what photographers Mert & Marcus have done and are doing, as well Miuccia Prada. Guy Bourdin has definitely inspired me in my career as well as Helmut Newton.

 

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More info:

Anna Katsanis

Wardrobe Stylist

Represented by The Wall Group

Phone:(212)352-0777

 

 

Sylvia Gobbel,Helmut Newton’s muse-The model,the beauty,the woman,an exclusive Inter-View to Sybilia’s F.Diary

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Helmut Newton for Pomellato

Sylvia Gobbel is a super successful model and Helmut Newton’s favorite face, as he took numerous shots of her and also put her on the cover of his book of “Big Nudes”.Sylvia had the chance to work with A-list photographers such as Guy Bourdin, Gianpaolo Barbieri, Oliviero Toscani and Peter Lindbergh, Her good looks accompanied with a strong personality,made the process of the interview a complete delight.Currently living in Paris,she undoubtedly has a lot to say about modelling and fashion industry,from the side of an ‘insider’.Here she is interviewed by Sybilia,an exclusivity,we all here feel proud of!

What mostly influenced you to get involved with fashion?
Well, I have to say, that I fell into fashion…I didn’t choose. I was discovered in the tramway in Vienna while I was a student.

How you will describe your personal aesthetics/vision?
Have style, fashion is getting out of fashion…Style is eternal…

– Is there something you ‘like to do/work for and haven’t done it so far?
I’m starting to organize some shows for the fashion week and shootings for young
Designers. I would like to develop that more. I’m a great organizer. That’s my German roots…(.like Lagerfeld perhaps)

-Are there any contemporary (or older) creatives that influenced you?Both! I love Azzedine ALAIA, Yves Saint Laurent (himself) Karl Lagerfeld, Alexandre Vauthier, Hervé Leger…..

-How does it feel to be a renowned photographer’s muse?
Good of course….but also funny, because I’m already exposed in all museums of the world, but I’m not THAT old…;-)

Helmut Newton for AMICA

Helmut Newton for AMICA

Helmut Newton with his wife and model Sylvia Gobbel

Helmut Newton with his wife, and model Sylvia Gobbel

Sylvia today (2014) photo Franck Glenisson

Sylvia today (2014) photo Franck Glenisson

Sylvia French VOGUE november 2012 photographer David SIMS

Sylvia French VOGUE november 2012 photographer David SIMS

‘In a magical fashion’-Artist Tina Cassati’s interview to Sybilia’s F.D.

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Tina Cassati is an artist with many (and vast) fields of expertise.As a visual artist and costumier,she has created a strong and alluring image language that can’t pass unnoticed.The Berlin born artist makes COSTUMES (sculpture le mode), ruffs, hats-, bags- and shoes-, jewelry objects  into modern surreale digital-photo-art worlds and illustrations.She paints, sews, draws, photographs (mixed media,collage, illustration). She does not care about genres. Her work is influenced by Renaissance, Baroque, fairy tales. To her, fashion is fine art.

Her interview to Sybilia’s FD explores her references as well as her aesthetics-no magic lost,we assure you.

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What mostly influenced you to get involved with fashion/art?

Tina Cassati is very inspired of historical and particularly of Elizabethan costumes, eastern clothes, fairy tale, folklore as well as from the picture language of the Renaissance. The love for costume and before all to the theater affects its work much. The fusion of philosophy, symbolism and different rituals from the past and the present as well as stories inspire the work of Tina Cassati, paired the whole with visions of the future. She is currently working among others on the project –giardino di arte – this is a conceptual art project (current series), where self-made  costumes and objects (sculpture le mode) and photo-surreal art (mixed media) in combine with the nature takes place, the greatest source of inspiration of Tina Cassati.

(the project – donna di fantasia / swanhälsinnen / la bella sposa – are artificially created women. here worked  tina Cassati  exclusively in the area of ​​mixed media (photography, collage, illustration, paper etc.).

 

How you will describe your personal aesthetics/vision?

my aesthetic moves very elegant in delicate fragile space — with a certain degree of melancholy.the beauty of the delicate, fragile-like very much.

 

Is there something you ‘like to do/work for and haven’t done it so far?

oh yes, I would like to merge times with a jewelry designer or perfumier

 

Are there any contemporary (or older) creative that influenced you?

I love the work of Sandro Botticelli and Lucas Cranach and many more

Especially the painting influenced me very. Elsa Schiaparelli in the circle of Surrealists such as Salvador Dali are great creative waves.  In the meantime, however, I find my greatest role model but in the nature.  .. It is increasingly

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View more: http://www.tinacassati.com/

Dejan Despotovic speaks to Sybilia’s F.D. about his BLACK’D SS15 collection

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Dejan Despotovic is one of the few designers that leave nothing to chance.His work,strongly influenced by his artistic interests,in the case of his BLACK’D SS15 collection,music.He describes his work as part of his ”world of imagination’‘ and so is the use of black color.He describes the creative process to Sybilia’s F.D.

”The Collection for SS15 is inspired by music and my world of imagination. I really enjoy listening to classical music when I design and that is something that travels me to the parallel world where I really can imagine how something will look, move and even the details….Of course the process of finding fabrics and detail pieces is long so there is a lot of changes during the process, but the main idea is always there so I am happy to be able to enter that world where I can be by my own and dream about new pieces.
Max Richter is one of the composers who is always there and always inspiring that much that I can stay awake with my pencil and paper until 6 am in the morning, take a shower and go to work.
Black color is again main character in this collection but with different detailing and a lot of playing with forms and leather pieces stitched on mesh or any other fabric.
Accessories became a very important part of my business, because I really started finding my self in that world, and started loving designing Bags, so There will always be more and more bags in next collections. I started with 2 now in SS15 there is 6 bags, so we are moving forward and I love it.:)”
(We are,also loving the whole collection,that’s for sure,let alone the brand new bag designs!)
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For further info:

email 
phone 
+1 347 567 5680
+ 381 11 344 9663
site

Designer Sabinna Rachimova and the search for modernity-An interview

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Sabinna is a London/Vienna-based fashion designer who graduated from Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design. The Russian-born designer grew up in Vienna and before moving to London, she gained work experience at the atelier of Schella Kann. In 2012 Sabinna worked for the leading Parisian fashion house Christian Dior and in 2013 for the outstanding London brand Mary Katrantzou. In 2014 she launched her own womenswear and accessories label SABINNA a hybrid of basic yet well-tailored staples to outstanding,playful,details in cut and embellishment.Her work is fresh and of quality,showcasing a person of potential someone has to have eyes on.Here’s her interview to Sybilia

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What mostly influenced you to get involved with fashion/art?

Probably my grandmother and somehow also Russian TV. My grandmother was really into fashion, she would always wear her own creations (she wasn’t a designer though, her actual job was teaching in  a high school back in USSR) and she also sew stuff for me when I was a kid. And Russian TV was always crazy and colorful for me, with a lot of things that might be considered tasteless. I liked that mix and also how all these things developed my imagination.

-How you will describe your personal aesthetics/vision?

With my designs I try to experiment with textured and shapes that carry the same color. I find it interesting to see how the look changes due to silhouette and texture rather then the applied colors or prints.

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s there something you ‘like to do/work for and haven’t done it so far?

I would like to do a long research trip for my next collection. Visit places that I have never seen before and get inspired in a new way. Also I would be interested in collaborating with other young designers.

-Are there any contemporary (or older) creative that influenced you?

If we speak about Fashion: I am a huge fan of Raf Simons, I simply love his aesthetics. Also I really like the British designer Roksanda Ilincic – great designs and textures.

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View more at : http://www.sabinna.com/home  

Krasimira Ivanova Stoyneva:MUUSE x VOGUE Talents – Young Vision Award 2014 final winner-exclusive interview.

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Krasimira Ivanova Stoyneva is a young designer from Bulgaria that has already made an impact in the fashion world,including her work being the final winning collection at MUUSE x VOGUE Talents – Young Vision Award 2014.We are therefore happy to feature her Inter-View, with her explaining her concept and overall vision.Certainly a name to watch!

-What mostly influenced you to become a fashion, a couture designer?
I have been drawing all my life. The first thing I can remember to do with Fashion is drawing those paper dolls- sketching, coloring and cutting new outfits all the time. O and my first sawing machine I got it very early probably I was 7 years old (of course a child one), sawing and tailoring have always been present in my family (my bought grandmothers, my mum and my granddad who was the best tailor in town). I have studied fine art for 8 years. I found out that fine are is a bit to slow for me and creating garments was way more interesting end electrifying. I learn to apply all skills gained from fine art such as sculpture, illustration, ext., in to my designing.

-How you will describe your personal aesthetics/vision?
That is a hard question as I move and change everything all the time, we live in a very fast developing environment, things change and move forward every day. I could say that to me is more about the filings and emotions I get in a certain period of time. I want my designs to express freedom, boundaries to be fun and exciting. I love mixing things, fabrics, colors, styles ext., ext.

Is there something you ‘like to do/work for and haven’t done it so far?
Yes. I want to keep on dreaming and achieving. I have always dreamed to create my own brand and work with some off my best friends in it (I already have roles for them created in my head). To be clearer I would say opening my own brand is one of my next big steps, before that happens I will be gaining more experience in the field.

-Are there any contemporary (or older) designers that you find to your taste?

I`ve got many favorite designers, let’s say Christopher Kane for his interesting approaches to design and detail, Stella McCartney for her aesthetic and sustainable collections, Sarah Burton the way she amazingly managed to carry on Alexander McQueen brand and still brings her own style and signature to the collections. Christian Lacroix was the first designer that made me dream of fashion with his collections full of dreams and fairytales ever so beautiful, Jan Paul Goutier my other favorite with his collection always so free and full of attitude. Those are just some of my favorites they all have different qualities and I admire them all for their creativity and qualities.

-Is there a particular woman or a type that you’d like to dress and haven’t had the chance so far?

The woman I would like to dress is free, confident, exciting and fun. When designing my Graduate collection I keep on joking that I`m making one coat for Gaga and Rihanna.

 

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Runway from the sound designer’s aspect:-Xavier Artus or Sound designer Monsieur X’s exclusive interview.

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”A good selection has to be eclectic, relevant and different from the music usually heard in all the public places. An inappropriate music selection can even constitute a sound pollution”.

Monsieur X’s goal is unappropriate to make discover or rediscover forgotten or badly represented artists. Specialized in the world of Luxury and Fashion, Monsieur X has collaborated with the following brands Dior Fine Jewellery, Kenzo, Céline, Chaumet, Fendi, Chanel boutique, Boucheron,Balmain, Habitat hotel group, Muse at Saint Tropez and also the young talented designer Alexis Mabille.

“A relevant sound reinforces a work, a creation, a place and supports it when it’s well chosen”.

After a thorough study of the brand‘s identity to be illustrated, Monsieur X proceeds to a meticulous choice of artists who will evoke the rightest as possible its DNA, the governing ideas for the launching of a new product, the visual elements of an institutional movie or the atmosphere to give to a place or an event.Meet Monsieur X and the secrets of runway/glamour music.

What influenced you to get  imvolved to the fashion industry?

Fashion allows me to tell a new story for every collection staying coherent with the designer’s personality and his/her speficic vision for the collection. I need to bring a little bit of humour in this fashion industry which is sometimes too conformist.

What is the ideal ‘’recipe’’ for a fashion show to succeed in terms of music?

Rhythm, intensity, Emotion, when possible humour and progress all along the show

Is there something you ‘like to do/work for and haven’t done it so far?
Contemporary dance is a complex, a poetic and extremely rigorous world where sound is key factor. I like also the fact it’s totally away of the sales-orientated fashion shows,there aren’t such limitations there.

How you will describe your personal aesthetics/vision?

For me, the perfect show would mix several ingredients: movie dialogues, sounds of real life, Humour, Contemporary and Timeless key musics…I cannot see any added value playing only the last Singles.

How much are you influenced by the designer’s view ?

My role is to take into consideration the designer’s tastes and the messages vehicled in a collection but also proposing new approaches to  emphazise a collection.

 

 

http://www.monsieur-x.net/

 

 

Introducing art photographer Matteo Bosi: ‘The body as a message’

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Matteo Bosi wass born in 1966 in Cesena, where he still lives, with his loved wife and two sons.
After graduating from the famous Istituto d’Arte della Ceramica di Faenza (‘Art Institute of Ceramics in Faenza’) in 1985, he has begun a long artistic career characterized by continuous experimentation.
This has been leading him to use multiple means of expression: from ceramics to painting, from photography to digital techniques.
Since 2000, he is the owner of the Communication Agency “Pixel Planet” S.a.s. Through this, he got to work:
-    both as communication designer, by creating graphics,  packaging, web-design and advertising campaigns,
-    and as fitter and organizer for Art Museums and Photo graphic Exhibitions in Italy and abroad on behalf of government agencies and foundations..Matteo Bosi participated in a number of top noch exhibitions and film/art festivals.Recent one’s include:

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Personale “à travers” doppia personale con luca merendi – galleria Ninapì | Ravenna | italia
Collettiva: “riemersi” SI FEST OFF | Palazzo Don Baronio Via Matteotti, 30 Savignano S/R.
Collettiva: Lussurria – Ex Convento dei Francescani Neri – Specchia – Lecce
Personale: “Body As Evidence” doppia personale con Masha Trotzky –  FotoLoft Gallery
Contemporary Art Centre WinzavodMoscow – Russia

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Collettiva: “Slow Photo” galleria estemporanea santevincenzidue – L’Arte invade Bologna – Arte Fiera
Personale: “Body As Evidence” doppia personale con Masha Trotzky – galleria Ninapì, Ravenna – Italia

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www.matteobosi.it

Igor Oussenko’s visual world-exclusive interview to Sybil-Ilia

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I am not the only one that consider Igor Oussenko one of the best big things in fashion/editorial photography.He managed to make a strong impression with his Kaleidoscope photography project for a retailer, while climbing the ladder with editorials for major fashion titles.Here featured is an interview to Sybil-Ilia.Take it as an opportunity to familiarize with a photographer that his work have already made an impact.

-Was photography an early passion of yours?Or something you discovered latter on?

Photography was a hobby for me for a long time.But when i’ve got my first camera,at 25,i began practicing in studio and soon started to shoot editorials and advertisement

 Could you say that photographers or other visual artists have had,in multiple ways,influenced your aesthetics?

The highest standard of photography for me is the work of Mert and Marcus and Steven Meisel.They always inspire me.

is there a ”recipe” for a good photography?Are you a fan of ‘retouched’ of the ‘unretouched’ side,btw?

I think that a good photography is the combination of the good light,clever composition plus high quality retouch and correction.The image after retouching must be better than before.Otherwise we have to skip this step or,perhaps,a part of it.

What is the difference between”black and white” and shooting ”in color”?

Black&White pictures focus our mind on the soul of the picture instead of diverting attention to the color.

What is finally the definition of ”beauty” for you?

I shoot mostly people,so i see beauty only naturally.Don’t like the modern ”upgrades” of the naturally born sexuality of the human being.

~And now,a chance to get to know him directly through his work~

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A sample of his -now famous-Kaleidoscopic series for a bags and shoes retailer.
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