Having a debut show at the House of Roberto Cavalli is stressful by itself,let alone when you are working out of the fashion critics’ favorite kids’ club (read:Marc Jacobs etc.). However Peter Dundas delivered a cohesive,promising collection with outfits deriving from Cavalli’s trademark pieces, yet all with a lighter,urban essence.There were some very interesting leather pieces plus some dresses that were stunners, along with less successful sporty hoodies and shorts. I loved the red fringed bag but those shoes..ugh!
There was something in Bottega Veneta collection that actually made my day.After Moschino and Prada color mayhem there is Thomas Maier working with a palette of orange to chic whites plus pastels that were an oasis for the eyes. Starting from the idea of “the outdoors, hiking, sailing, big nature,” he presented some interesting parachute dresses adorned with sailing ropes,militaire pieces paired with bold patterned shorts or militaire tops that echoed ”sporty chic with a twist”.An intriguing and most of all wearable collection.I’ll get myself a piece or two..
”The clothes are transformed into psycho-geographic maps capable of recording the urban unconscious: maps that embroider the world within a discourse of affectionate intimacy.” Ok.
Oh how wonderful would be to view such an urban dress meta-langage transformed into fashion,even more when the concept is disclaimed as such straight from the Gucci artistic director,Alessandro Michele.Instead of that, there was a series of outfits deriving from various inspiration sources: Chinoiserie, Egyptian imagery,Renaissance plus modern motifs.All that fashion mayhem along with prints with a surrealistic touch in oh-so bright colors.So forget Gucci as you knew it.Its trademark sensuality that Tom Ford and Frida Giannini skilfully developed is being replaced in favor of a nerdy-girly-uber superfluous approach to fashion.Prada at her worst?Definitely not Gucci.Lets see how this laugh will develop.
When you hear that the collection’s inspiration/concept is a “ botanical menagerie of caged birds”, you think nothing short but exquisite from Marchesa. Interestingly, things rather went at a darker,almost goth La la land as in black dresses,showcasing one of the strongest trends of this Fall:goth princesses and the rest. From feathers to 3-D embroidery,the items presented had it all, with taffeta,tulle and bows creating a dramatic result whereas grecian style dresses, excellently draped, bringing a lighter essence of the ”caged-bird-set-free” idea.
Its a fact,Peter Copping has cemented his place as an artistic director in Oscar de la Renta.The House’s recent collection at New York Fashion Week had it all,bold red,mysterious black and the iconic carnation in a pop art interpretation that made the gowns look young and fresh,old-fashion design quality with a modern twist.De la Renta’s own connection with the Latino-Hispanic culture was also present,with bold full skirts and bolero jackets.A collection that had it all,dramatic gowns,wearable chic outfits and,most important, a strong sense that Copping had done his research over the Oscar de la Renta archives in the best possible way.