This exhibition looks at the extremes of footwear from around the globe, presenting around 200 pairs of shoes ranging from a sandal decorated in pure gold leaf originating from ancient Egypt to the most elaborate designs by contemporary makers. It considers the cultural significance and transformative capacity of shoes and examines the latest developments in footwear technology creating the possibility of ever higher heels and dramatic shapes. Examples from famous shoe wearers and collectors are shown alongside a dazzling range of historic shoes, many of which have not been displayed before.
This season Tom Ford ditched the idea of a traditional fashion show,for the sake of a concept video,starring Lady Gaga plus a superteam of models such as Xiao Wen Ju, Aymeline Valade, Lexi Boling, Mica Arganaraz, Valery Kaufman, Lida Fox, and Kayla Scott.The film is directed by Nick Knight and features all Ford’s classics-luxurious designs:sexy cuts,minidresses,hich heels and sequined pieces.
Tom Ford officially described the project as :“Having a runway show has become so much about the creation of imagery for online and social media, and watching a filmed fashion show can be like watching a filmed play,” “It was a great deal of fun to do, and I think that the video captures the spirit of the collection in a way that a filmed traditional show would not have.” The news here is that Ford delivered a collection of outfits i would most eagerly buy.
I have argued in the past that Raf Simons isnt the man to hold the reins in such an iconic House as the Christian Dior one.His Spring 2016 RTW not only proved he’s unable to work with and develop the huge Dior dna database,it also showcased that his ‘concept’ can also be catastrophic.
Simon’s defined his current view as ”a calm one, and very soft—away from the overdone”. He also stated the South of France as a source of inspiration along with victorial underwear.The result served neither of the above.A series of ill-fitting cotton dresses,shorts,and camisoles.black blazers,oversized knits and an obsession for simplicity that made the whole collection appear…embarassigly amateurish.For a House under the name of Dior this is unforgiving.And,no, the focus at the neck with chockers and scarves featuring a metal tag that read 1947, the date of Dior’s iconic New Look collection didnt help..In fact, those metal tags where the closest thing to the Dior heritage..Pathetic..
“I prefer being relevant to being cool, because if you’re cool, you’re also cold the next day. So it’s more about being relevant. The one thing that always scares me is to be like the Miss America of the moment, because next year there is a new Miss America.”
I have always been a fan of Alber Elbaz’s work and his Lanvin RTW Spring 2016 collection is no exception.Pursuing the boundaries between fashion design and the same design as perceived at the era of instant photos and video transmissions.Elbaz himself was heard saying at the show’s preview that : “We used to be designers. Now, we’re image-makers,” a concept that indeed characterized the collection. Working with black and white basics and proceeding to bolder color choices Elbaz showed the fun side of chic,a very modern approach he perfectly embraced.There also gowns that looked revealing yet embodied strong constructed foundations,loose silhouettes under luxurious cardigans,sequined pieces plus some excellent lace dresses,again based on nude optical illusion that worked well.I also loved the adornements/accessories-bold bows,fancy pins,flowers and.. Those bags-pure objets du desir!
Lets be honest.Watching the Balmain Spring 2016 RTW collection by Olivier Rousteing made me think he actually presented outfits straight out of his most expected collaboration with high street megastores H&M instead of a RTW collection.Regardless of all raving reviews i read, i strongly feel that Mr Rousteing is far less talented or less interested in working with the actual Balmain dna-still almost noone seems to notice.No wonder why.He has placed far too much energy in publicity acquired from his closeness to the Kardashian Klan or Rihanna,loves being in the spotlight,employs supermodels.. just because he cannot actually design clothes.Cruel buth true.So what we did see at the Balmain catwalk?Fishnet spins,tribal looking pieces,heavy looking macrame pieces and ruffles,many rufless. Along came T-shirt gowns,adorned with emeralds and sapphires,plus dresses that shaped a curvy silhouette with exaggerated shoulders that were closer to kitsch than to sexy-think Kim and you’re in!
We are all aware that the fashion industry is a jungle with hundreds of talents trying to surface and get noticed.Sometimes less known but extremely talented designers have to face unethical behavior and arrogance from well established fashion companies-that is using their ideas,forced to work unpaid or uncredited.
The first case is the Gucci spring 2016 accessories range that featured some nail rings extremely similar to those of Bijules, a New York-based fine jewelry brand.Bijules have been producing this kind of trademark nail rings since 2006.The collection had been succesful so there is no case of coincidence.”While it is an honor to be knocked off by Gucci, they have all of the resources to create something unique; instead they went back to something that’s steadfast and iconic of my company and that is unjust,” stated Kim directly to Fashionista.com “If Gucci sells those nail rings to stores, those stores are going to believe Gucci made them and not me, and that is not a fair statement.“The question here is why Gucci has had to copy instead of producing new,equally iconic designs?(Hear that Alessandro Michele?)
The second case that recently emerged is the Olsen sisters’ one.The sisters were ued by a former intern, Shahista Lalani, who says she was overworked with no pay while working for the twins’ licensing and manufacturing company, Dualstar Entertainment Group, in 2012.”You’re like an employee, except you’re not getting paid,” Shahista told the Business Insider. “They’re kind of mean to you. Other interns have cried. I’d see a lot of kids crying doing coffee runs, photocopying stuff.”
For all the allure and glamour of the fashion industry,there is an equally present side of unethical,antagonistic,unfair politics.The question here is why established Fashion Houses end up not paying interns or becoming copycats regardless of all the capital and the resourses to produce fresh,interesting collections. Lack of talent? Arrogance? In anycase… something is rotten in the Kigdom of Fashion…
Dolce & Gabbana are by far my favorite Italian designers.Matching elegant cuts with super embelished accessories,they usually derive inspiration from the great Italian tradition.Last year it was Portofino,now the idea is ”Going sighseeing”, with the models actually taking some (now most sought after) selfies while on the catwalk.All sorts of vintage references were there,motifs that represented the Colosseum or the Tower of Piza on colorful midi dresses plus accessories like printed scarves,sunglasses or sandals along with the everpresent ‘Sicilian’ blacks.Someone might say its time to go more minimal still the talent/skill of transforming extravaganza into wearable pieces is something that Dolce &Gabbana are very good at while having fun. As Stefano Gabbana exclaimed: “We don’t believe in fashion for trends any more. We want to show emotion. Just enjoy!”