The Evolution of Haute Couture-Jeffrey Felner,Monsieur X and Maria Aristidou discuss the future of Haute Couture

1951. Christian Dior. Silk taffeta evening gown w/ jewel @ bust worn with opera length evening gloves. Paris

1951. Christian Dior. Silk taffeta evening gown w/ jewel @ bust worn with opera length evening gloves. Paris

Haute Couture has always been,by definition, a matter of exquisite design,excellent stitching and taking care of individual clients’needs.’Haute Couture’ is also a term that enjoys protection of the French Law,since the Chamber of Commerce and Industry in Paris determine which fashion houses are eligible to be ‘ haute couture houses’,with this privilege being strictly protected by the Chambre Syndicale.Generally,we find that in order for an atelier to use the term ‘couture’,there must be : ” a couture fashion house that creates unique pieces designed to directly fit on a client’s body or on a dress form replicating hers, with a number of individual fittings being carried out on each client. They must have an atelier in Paris, with at least 20 full time employees, and the fashion house must present a minimum of two 25–piece collections to the Paris press each year.”

Impressive.But,in the era of fashion shows’ live transmission via web and with trends being originating through Instagram “influencers” and pop culture,is there place for Haute Couture to serve its elitist purpose?There is,we think.Karl Lagerfeld describes this evolution as a matter of just changing times:“There is now a different kind of couture for what different circumstances permit. Luxury ready-to-wear is not so far from what couture used to be … The new couture clients are beautiful, young. We have Russians, Indians, Chinese, South Americans. Women from the Gulf countries don’t even come to Paris; the première flies the collections to them.”Can that be Haute Couture? We asked three friends ( and mostly)fashion insiders for their view over this interesting yet critical issue-the future of Haute Couture.

Jeffrey Felner:

”As long as there are those of extreme wealth there will always be Haute Couture. The question is what will Haute Couture look like in generations to come and who will be responsible for carrying the torch. IMHO the future is not in the hands of a Raf but in the hands of Vauthier, Lemaire, Saab and Valli as it they who understand and remain committed to the tenets and practices of the craft.”

 (JF is the international fashion editor for the examiner.com as well as a book reviewer for the New York Journal of Books with the focus being on all aspects of fashion and style.)

 

Monsieur X:

”Some brands like JP Gautier stop ready-to-wear to focus on haute couture only, which appears to be much more profitable.Although Haute Couture is not always lucrative, it offers a few brands a worldwide recognition and becomes attractive to Middle East, Russian and emerging market countries clientele.Thanks to these new customers, young brands newly labelled as haute couture brands, start becoming profitable.Today, fashion houses move to the most important capital cities in the world, in order to establish closer ties with their customers.Haute couture goes on evolving with a new generation of designers and keep on attracting journalists and bloggers. It definitly needs to go on seducing this clientele to continue and make people dream.”

(Monsieur X

(.Monsieur X’s goal is to make discover or rediscover forgotten or badly represented artists.Specialized in the world of Luxury and Fashion, Monsieur X has collaborated with the following brands Dior Fine Jewellery, Chanel Fine Jewellery, Cartier, Boucheron, Chaumet, Kenzo, Céline,  Fendi, Balmain and also the young talented designer Alexis Mabille.)

 

Maria Aristidou:

”Nowadays, even though financial crisis forced many Haute Couture designers to either close down their ateriers or make a 360o diversion to Ready to Wear, I still believe that Haute Couture is surviving.  Maybe on a smaller scale but definatley it is not vanishing.  Yes, Haute Couture is that special creation, the unique piece that is designed for a client’s figure with a special care, hand made, hand embroideries, etc…but that is its whole beauty and magic!!!.I still believe that there is a demand for it even worldwide economy goes through tough times.”

(Fashion designer in both men and women wear. http://www.mariaristidou.com Her last project was a Limited Edition Scarf Line A/W 2014-15. She is now working on her next capsule collections as well as for the collaboration with LIVE AID Symphony Orchestra at the at the SGM Conference Center Roma for a charity fashion show in 2016.)

 

 

”Spooky”-Tim Walker collaborates with Agyness Deyn for LOVE magazine S/S 2015

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Katie Grand-Fashion Editor
Agyness Deyn-Talent
Jordan Hill, Liam Duffy, Reece Winchester, Sylvester Ulv, Tobias Ellehammer-Male Models and Dancers
Julien d’Ys-Head & Body Paint, Headpieces
Emma Roach-Set Designer
Jeff Delich-Production

Nick Knight’s archives celebrate ”Unseen McQueen” via Showstudio, from 13 to 20 March

 

”Give me time and I will give you a revolution”

~Alexander McQueen~

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In conjunction with the opening of ‘Savage Beauty’ at the V&A on 14 March 2015, SHOWstudio celebrates the life of the late Lee McQueen and his fruitful bond with Nick Knight. Knight has filmed all of his photoshoots since the late eighties and, for the first time, reveals hidden gems from his archive to the public. One piece of unseen McQueen footage will be revealed each day from 13 to 20 March.

SHOWstudio founder and acclaimed image-maker Nick Knight has filmed all of his photoshoots since the late eighties. In his extensive personal archive sits footage of some of his most iconic shoots – from Dior campaigns with John Galliano to pioneering editorials for the likes of Visionaire and Vogue. In a very special initiative, Knight will reveal a run of previously unseen gems from this extensive archive to the public as a means of celebrating his longterm working relationship with the late Lee McQueen. The SHOWstudio team and Knight’s photographic assistants have spent months searching through endless tapes and days of footage, digitalising early work and editing their finds into beautiful films.

Launching in conjunction with the opening of Savage Beauty at the V&A, London on 14 March 2015, SHOWstudio’s Unseen McQueen series will celebrate the life and work of the late designer by revealing previously unreleased interviews and behind-the-scenes footage from some of his most iconic projects. Knight’s relationship with McQueen, who passed away in February 2010, began formally in 1996, when the two collaborated on a series of images for the Florence Biennale, though the pair had met previously at events and McQueen had begun to send Knight an annual Christmas fax. For Spring/Summer 2010, SHOWstudio famously live-streamed Plato’s Atlanis, McQueen’s final collection before his death.

Footage to be released as part of Unseen McQueen includes a candid interview with McQueen, filmed at the early stages of his career in 1997, footage of Knight shooting McQueen for the April 1998 cover of The Face– a now iconic image – and a video of Knight, Katy England, Michael Clark and McQueen collaborating on the unforgettable Blade of Light image featuring clothing from the They Shoot Horses, Don’t They? collection from Spring/Summer 2004.

One piece of unseen footage will be revealed each day from 13 – 20 March 2015. To explain and unpick the footage, SHOWstudio editor Lou Stoppard will interview Knight about each new release, shedding light on their working relationship, McQueen as a man and the vision and ideas behind their collaborations. Theory and analysis on themes pertaining to McQueen’s life and legacy – from his love of spectacle and commitment to pushing the boundaries of fashion presentation to the nature of the fashion exhibition – will also be offered through interviews with those who worked with McQueen and experts who have studied his work.

The magical world of wardrobe stylist Anna Katsanis-An interview

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Proudly presenting Anna Katsanis a renowned wardrobe stylist with a signature ‘look’ or approach to fashion apparel that make her collaborations stand out for their innovating look and chic aesthetics.Anna Katsanis is a ny based wardrobe stylist whose interest in fashion came at a young age from her love of art and design. She received her degree from F.I.T in Fashion Merchandising Management & Advertising & Marketing Communications. Anna got her start interning under editors in the fashion departments of some of the most coveted magazines in ny. Anna has styled high fashion editorials for several international publications of Vogue, Elle, Marie Claire, Tatler, L’Officiel. Her naturalistic approach to wardrobe styling is inspired by making women feel that fashion is both approachable & wearable. She is inspired by all things glamour and a love of vintage fashion & design. Anna is currently the merchandise editor at IN NY Magazine. Her e-commerce client includes Century 21 department stores. She has worked with celebrities from Lindsay Lohan, Paris Hilton, Atlanta De Cadenet, Ivanka Trump, Li Bing Bing, Ezra Miller, Paul Dano, Bethenny Frankel, Elisabeth Rohm, and artists such as Natalia Kills, Cults, Sons & Keri Hilson.Here she engages herself to the Sybilia questionnaire-and we feel privileged for that!

-What mostly influenced you to get involved with fashion/art?

It started first with my love for illustration. I would draw portraits, and sketch fashion croquis and clothing from a young age. I attended the Cooper Union School of Art for weekend classes when I was 12 and was exposed to all kinds of art from 2 & 3 dimensional design, to large scale sculptures, painting, etc., which continued throughout high school. I was obsessed with art and fashion, which lead me to FIT.
One day a fashion editor from Elle Magazine came to speak to our class about her job and from then on I knew I wanted to learn more so I applied for an internship in their fashion department. The rest was history.

-How you will describe your personal aesthetics/vision?
I have a definite appreciation for cinema and have been greatly influenced by both movies and music. I love the 40’s, 50’s, 60’s, 70’s. When researching for a photoshoot, for me it’s all about the character, and who is the person behind this story. Also I love to approach styling that is both approachable and attainable for women. I love mixing more whimsical pieces with more chic/ classic pieces because I feel like women should have fun with what they wear and not take themselves too seriously.

Is there someone you’d like to do/work for and haven’t done it so far?

I would love to collaborate with photographers Sofia Sanchez & Mauro Mongiello, & Miles Aldridge. I greatly admire their work and vision & would love to work with them.

Are there any contemporary (or older) creatives that inspire you?

I am incredibly inspired by what photographers Mert & Marcus have done and are doing, as well Miuccia Prada. Guy Bourdin has definitely inspired me in my career as well as Helmut Newton.

 

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More info:

Anna Katsanis

Wardrobe Stylist

Represented by The Wall Group

Phone:(212)352-0777

 

 

Oscar de la Renta: A visual tribute to his astonishing work along with his quotes that made an impact

 

 

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“Fashion is about the present and the immediate future. I think in terms of now.”

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“Fashion is about dressing according to what’s fashionable. Style is more about being yourself.”

oscar de la renta, fall 2014.

oscar de la renta, fall 2014.

 

“I hate pretty. It’s a very empty word. It gives a bad name to beauty.”

oscar de la renta, bridal 2015

oscar de la renta, bridal 2015

“I design clothes for women to wear. I am not interested in shock tactics. I just want to make beautiful clothes.

 

oscar de la renta spring 2014 photo by rachel scroggins

oscar de la renta spring 2014 photo by rachel scroggins

Oscar de la Renta3

“Walk like you have three men walking behind you.”

The Cloud dress, Oscar de la Renta, 2012.

The Cloud dress, Oscar de la Renta, 2012.

 

Sylvia Gobbel,Helmut Newton’s muse-The model,the beauty,the woman,an exclusive Inter-View to Sybilia’s F.Diary

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Helmut Newton for Pomellato

Sylvia Gobbel is a super successful model and Helmut Newton’s favorite face, as he took numerous shots of her and also put her on the cover of his book of “Big Nudes”.Sylvia had the chance to work with A-list photographers such as Guy Bourdin, Gianpaolo Barbieri, Oliviero Toscani and Peter Lindbergh, Her good looks accompanied with a strong personality,made the process of the interview a complete delight.Currently living in Paris,she undoubtedly has a lot to say about modelling and fashion industry,from the side of an ‘insider’.Here she is interviewed by Sybilia,an exclusivity,we all here feel proud of!

What mostly influenced you to get involved with fashion?
Well, I have to say, that I fell into fashion…I didn’t choose. I was discovered in the tramway in Vienna while I was a student.

How you will describe your personal aesthetics/vision?
Have style, fashion is getting out of fashion…Style is eternal…

– Is there something you ‘like to do/work for and haven’t done it so far?
I’m starting to organize some shows for the fashion week and shootings for young
Designers. I would like to develop that more. I’m a great organizer. That’s my German roots…(.like Lagerfeld perhaps)

-Are there any contemporary (or older) creatives that influenced you?Both! I love Azzedine ALAIA, Yves Saint Laurent (himself) Karl Lagerfeld, Alexandre Vauthier, Hervé Leger…..

-How does it feel to be a renowned photographer’s muse?
Good of course….but also funny, because I’m already exposed in all museums of the world, but I’m not THAT old…;-)

Helmut Newton for AMICA

Helmut Newton for AMICA

Helmut Newton with his wife and model Sylvia Gobbel

Helmut Newton with his wife, and model Sylvia Gobbel

Sylvia today (2014) photo Franck Glenisson

Sylvia today (2014) photo Franck Glenisson

Sylvia French VOGUE november 2012 photographer David SIMS

Sylvia French VOGUE november 2012 photographer David SIMS

Kristian Schuller lenses Coco Rocha for L’Officiel Italia September 2014

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‘Minerva is a diva’

Fashion Editor: Peggy Schuller
Hair: Yusef
Make-up: Stefanie Willmann

“Bettina” Photography Exhibition-Retracing the 1950s chic

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‘Bettina”was actually called Simone Bodin named “Bettina” by  Couturier Jacques Faith.She started modelling for Faith and developed as one of the most successful and iconic top models of her time.Both a gamine persona and the personification of chic, she appears in fashion photographs of the most prominent photographers of the time.The  photography exhibition named  “Bettina” aims to retrace the 50’s fashion and the work of renowned photographers such as Erwin Blumenfeld, Irving Penn, Norman Parkinson, Horst P. Horst, and Jean-Philippe Charbonnier-with ”Bettina”as the connecting element.Previously presented at the Galleria Carla Sozzani in Milan and currently at  Galerie Azzedine Alaia in Paris,its an event not to  miss.”Bettina” modeled for the biggest Couture Houses of her time and also acted as a press agent for Hubert de Givenchy,whom she helped rise to international faith-no doubt why Givenchy named his first collection after her.

Bettina by Gordon Parks, Paris, 1951

Bettina by Gordon Parks, Paris, 1951

Bettina, Paris, 1951

Bettina, Paris, 1951

Bettina, Paris, Paris Match n°162, avril 1952

Bettina, Paris, Paris Match n°162,

Vogue France, September 1949

Vogue France, September 1949

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