Dolce & Gabbana are by far my favorite Italian designers.Matching elegant cuts with super embelished accessories,they usually derive inspiration from the great Italian tradition.Last year it was Portofino,now the idea is ”Going sighseeing”, with the models actually taking some (now most sought after) selfies while on the catwalk.All sorts of vintage references were there,motifs that represented the Colosseum or the Tower of Piza on colorful midi dresses plus accessories like printed scarves,sunglasses or sandals along with the everpresent ‘Sicilian’ blacks.Someone might say its time to go more minimal still the talent/skill of transforming extravaganza into wearable pieces is something that Dolce &Gabbana are very good at while having fun. As Stefano Gabbana exclaimed: “We don’t believe in fashion for trends any more. We want to show emotion. Just enjoy!”
Having a debut show at the House of Roberto Cavalli is stressful by itself,let alone when you are working out of the fashion critics’ favorite kids’ club (read:Marc Jacobs etc.). However Peter Dundas delivered a cohesive,promising collection with outfits deriving from Cavalli’s trademark pieces, yet all with a lighter,urban essence.There were some very interesting leather pieces plus some dresses that were stunners, along with less successful sporty hoodies and shorts. I loved the red fringed bag but those shoes..ugh!
There was something in Bottega Veneta collection that actually made my day.After Moschino and Prada color mayhem there is Thomas Maier working with a palette of orange to chic whites plus pastels that were an oasis for the eyes. Starting from the idea of “the outdoors, hiking, sailing, big nature,” he presented some interesting parachute dresses adorned with sailing ropes,militaire pieces paired with bold patterned shorts or militaire tops that echoed ”sporty chic with a twist”.An intriguing and most of all wearable collection.I’ll get myself a piece or two..
”The clothes are transformed into psycho-geographic maps capable of recording the urban unconscious: maps that embroider the world within a discourse of affectionate intimacy.” Ok.
Oh how wonderful would be to view such an urban dress meta-langage transformed into fashion,even more when the concept is disclaimed as such straight from the Gucci artistic director,Alessandro Michele.Instead of that, there was a series of outfits deriving from various inspiration sources: Chinoiserie, Egyptian imagery,Renaissance plus modern motifs.All that fashion mayhem along with prints with a surrealistic touch in oh-so bright colors.So forget Gucci as you knew it.Its trademark sensuality that Tom Ford and Frida Giannini skilfully developed is being replaced in favor of a nerdy-girly-uber superfluous approach to fashion.Prada at her worst?Definitely not Gucci.Lets see how this laugh will develop.
Christopher Bailey allegedly defined this show as a “mash-up of things I really love.”And that is indeed the problem.With trench coats over sheer summer dresses, the designer definitely worked with no particular season in mind.With a limited palette of black and white plus a few pastels,the collection made far less impression than Burberry previous ones.Was it for the uninspired cuts of the dresses?Was it of this tiring obsession with pairing almost every look with a black and gold backpack?Of course,there were some great militaire coats and leather jackets that stand out but still,no sense of viewing something fresh.The rose colored lips were the collections hype i loved, though.