Gucci’s Fall 2017 Wednesday show took place in Milan,in a runway created to be viewed through a glass-encased breezeway, a passageway that served to create the necessary distance between the spectators and the clothes.Was it to blame that the uber ornamented pieces appeared a bit…two-dimensional in their splendor? Alessandro Michele’s motto seemed to be “Common sense is not that common.” and with that in mind he created a ‘garden of Eden’ deriving from his literary memories,being inspired by his literary muses such as Jane Austen and Virginia Woolf.“I was trying to be like an alchemist to talk about romanticism,” said the designer of Austen’s influence. He was on a literary quest: books were chained to the model’s hands, to “enslave them to the culture”!
This show was the house’s first to fully combine men’s and women’s wear, as it is the prevailing trend, and Alessandro Michele sent out 119 looks with each look comprised with enough merchandise to dress more than one person.He accordingly stated that: ”I don’t know how many pieces I drew — it’s never-ending. But it’s not a matter of time. Putting men and women is simply more current. Fashion is not just to present a dress. Fashion is a point of view.”
Still,combining their men’s and women’s collections -the decision makes sense: Michele, has since long ago applied the same aesthetics— high embellishment and pseudo-historical ornamentation as reference, both to menswear and womenswear .Sometimes those collections cross paths,with the house producing for example pussy bow blouses for both male and females,the very definition of gender ambiguity.
In all this sartorial,aesthetic and even genre ambiguity Alessandro Michele provides the answer as such: “But a creative person doesn’t always know where they’re going. You have to follow wherever your inspiration takes you.”, failing to recognize that inspirational work is then being measured by the infallible measure of taste (aka aesthetics).
You could call the Gucci Fall 2017 collection extravagant,transformative,mythical,full of exoticism and adornment and i would agree in some aspects,it was.It could elevate basic accessories to the point of ‘hype’ producing an extra dose of ‘kookiness’ that was refreshing.You could see the meeting of the words in terms of sartorial influences but the references kept coming reaching a pan historic approach to design,as well as the embellishments thrived reminiscent of every possible country’s particulars.
What you couldn’t see coming was a clear end in a fashion show that was in the verge of being described as ‘carnivalistic’,a clear focus point,a aesthetic line that would justify all this maximalism. It was made clear that those clothes were for Gucci followers that fetichize each extreme shoe design or Gucci T-shirt overwritten with the words, “I want to go back to believe in a story.” In the end?An impressive collection that has touched the top of extravaganza and adornment speaks for a decisive need to recapitalize the fashion vocabulary before it starts becoming a schizophrenic ‘word salad’
And i still haven’t said much about the actual clothes..