Chalayan RTW Fall 2017- ”Fashion meets theatrical deconstruction”

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Hussein Chalayan returned  to the London catwalk on Saturday for the first time in 16 years, presenting a collection of relaxed but structured tailoring inspired by  ancient Greek aesthetics and Greek folk culture.With elegance and fluidity being the key characteristics of the collection,the born Greek-Cypriot, now British designer delivered a masterclass in tailoring focusing on the sleeves and the back of the garments,shirts with built-in waistcoats, and carrot-shaped trousers with wrap belts in wool blend knitted felts.There were some excellent cashmere black dresses cut to look as if they were falling off the shoulders,white and black prints as well as carefully stitched greek figures.

Then,there came a series of dresses with geometric print panels on the front of their dresses — helpfully labelled “Pull To Open”.Transforming aggression and mostly protest to a gesture in space and time ( and not to a T-shirt logo) ,those panes were violently torn apart by the models to reveal glittery foil streamers and feathers that fell gracefully to the ground.”It was a combination of a protest and a celebration — I wanted these very tacky things coming out, that I found very beautiful,”  Chalayan was telling  reporters backstage.“That’s what life is, that you can have that duality — the protest element, but also the purity.“There’s a kind of aggression in that you need to tear them, but the things that come out are quite charming,” 

His search for theatrical deconstruction made ‘gesture’ as significant as protest and ‘violence’ signified by the process of paper tearing on stage, as the birth of something vulnerable and beautiful.You cant get more political than that.Even without T-shirts.

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