Paris Fashion Week 2016/27:Saint Laurent is still under construction.


And so it happened again.With Anthony Vaccarello we actually watch another designer  behaving like a kid in the giant Saint Laurent candy shop,projecting his obsessions onto the actual brand’s design archives-choosing to focus on the 80’s’ Yves Saint Laurent-again.From this moment on,Vaccarello stretches the 80’s ysl theme to the extreme,presenting one-shouldered,single-leg-of-mutton-sleeved dresses in  black leather and lurex. Was that chic or kitsch?Were there a sense of an overall  artistic view/concept strong enough to justify  a serious dosage of bad taste?No,three times no.

There is a general trend of reviving the forms and the ‘attitude’ of the 80’s and Vaccarello is clearly following it. Still,for a megabrand that is Saint Laurent, some serious work on the archives must be done-then it will be time to talk about aesthetics.Still,as long as Saint Laurent will appear striving to join the ”Zara-fication of fashion- if you can’t beat ’em,join ’em, only with better fabrics and constructions” as elsewhere openly suggested,well, it will always be ‘under construction’,at least to me.




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