”(Schizo)Rhizomatic Scores”-Gucci’s Fall 2016 collection


“It is always from the depths of its impotence that each power center draws its power, hence their extreme maliciousness, and vanity”
~ Gilles Deleuze~

Alessandro Michele produced another show that was impressive to look at but without a coherent aesthetic basis.The show was called: ”Rhizomatic Scores” a reference to the philosophical theories of Deleuze and Guattari. Michele is no stranger of absurd definitions,describing the show as “The Renaissance arrives at Studio 54.”.Unfortunately the actual show presented looks that had nothing in common with Studio54,let alone with Gilles Deleuze(lol).

The Michele obsession of how to spoil a good basic idea with extra embellishment,fabrics and tons of accessories was once more present,with coiled serpent embroideries, double-breasted brocade coats, knitted ruffled red capes, and baseball jackets with the house webbing and..zebra striped platforms with hairy ‘tails!!

There where a few outfits that were decent,basically the minimal ones’ such as the white trench coat worn with red tights .And then..the carnival begun!Fabrics used in excess and in eye-catching combinations along with some ‘beauties” such as the total pink fur piece set the tone to a collection that focused on the cartoonish/grotesque.In that sense, there where some pieces that could stand apart such as the total black/goth dress with frills,the red printed dress (worn with sunglasses!),the Spanish-inspired frilled cardigan in pure red.

Two questions only:What exactly has all this sartorial mayhem in common with the writings of Deleuze and Guattari?And,are all those accessories worn of the models as a new ‘way of styling’ to  distracts the viewer fro the actual circus of the clothes themselves? I feel i’d like to see Tom Ford and Frida Giannini back soon..


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