Christophe Lemaire and his depart from Hermes’ creative direction, confirmed a round of last-month rumours that there is a change coming in the House of Hermes.Not that there is such a difference in sales figures,on the contrary, but the reason provided ”to concentrate on his personal line”, appears..half truth.His full statement was: ” “My own label is growing in an important way and I now really want and need to dedicate myself to it fully.”
Axel Dumas, Chief Executive Officer of Hermes.stated :”I am very grateful to Christophe for the passion with which he has addressed and enriched the expression of our house in women’s ready-to-wear.Under his artistic direction the métier has renewed its aesthetic and produced very satisfactory financial results. I wish him the greatest success with his own label which is so close to his heart”.
What is crucial to understand is that Hermes is not a ”one-designer’s” house,anyone could fit in as long as can follow the guidelines and work creatively on the House’s strong(indeed) dna .Not that Lemaire didn’t do that.But sales turned to focus a bit more on the accessories line rather than the womenswear one.A fresh face will arouse interest about the brand,still any ”newcomer” is expected to be more ”Hermes” and less of his personal style.Unless they somehow collide-and yes i’m thinking Guillaume Henry or perhaps Olivier Theyskens,who recently parted ways with Theory.Some also bring to the table the name of Isabel Marant,or the idea that Mrs Menkes’ ”outing” of Matthieu Blazy (Maison Martin Margiela) wasn’t irrelevant at all.
We’ll stay tuned with a sense of disappointment as to the actual boundaries a new designer can take the risk to push in such a well-established luxury House such at Hermes.