On the occasion of the 30 years since the founding of the Costume Gallery of the Pitti Palace, today,at the 12th of November will launch a much expected exhibition that includes the total redevelopment of the museum and is dedicated to “Women protagonists in the twentieth century.”
It is a path through the fashion of the twentieth century, in fact, the exhibition features clothes and accessories that belonged to women who have month identified in the course of the twentieth century and continue to distinguish themselves in different fields and disciplines, through which manifest their creativity. But they are also icons of the taste of their time, some distinguished by the creativity with which to create their works or decorate them, others emerge to the imagination and the creativity with which they wear.
Each woman was (or still is), protagonist for a given specificity, to the point that some distinctive features and highlights of their personality emerge from their clothing or their creations.
The exhibition – whose project preparation and supervision of works must be the architect Mauro Linari – winds its way through the halls of the Gallery, starting with the precious garments made from Rosa Genoni , socially engaged woman and promoter of fashion made in Italy , followed by the beautiful tunics made by Fortuny specifically for Eleonora Duse and legendary clothes of woman Franca Florio . Less known to the general public Maria Cumani , who inspired her husband Salvadore Quasimodo, and Antonella Cannavò Florio who wore romantic dresses from Schuberth, the “Tailor of the dive”, while the exuberance and eccentricity seems to bring different personalities such as Anna Piaggi and Cecilia Matteucci Lavarini (from the sumptuous collection of the latter came as a gift also), both fashion-conscious collectors. Susan Nevelson , designer for Ken Scott, and Lietta Horses , are behind creating fantastic textiles. Then, there are the clothes of Anna Rontani , writer of novels that allowed the public display of her wardrobe of more than a thousand pieces, from which the Museum has received as a gift a few items to showcase. Another donation, Patty Pravo’s clothes worn during all three editions of the Festival San Remo (1984, 1987 and 2002), gracing the ballroom, including Versace, Gucci and Cavalli. Di Flora Wiechmann Savioli and Angela Caputi jewelry are presented respectively in non-precious materials and jewelry. In addition to these appearances, the brides (the protagonists for a day), are being represented with nine bridal gowns.A much interesting part of the exhibition is the showcasing of the the plots of the women of Rwanda, that the designers transformed into jewelry. The Superintendent of the State Museums of Florence, Cristina Acidini comments : “Women in the middle, this is the thread: women protagonists as collectors of clothes and accessories, models and interpreters , the designers themselves, ladies fashion. Women of the show; women who chose not to make his every appearance a show. Creative women as artists, designers, craftsmen. Attendance is not discounted, compared to the dense (and known, and unhistorical) registers of men in the ranks of haute couture. “ For his part, the Director of the Galleria del Costume, Catherine Chiarelli , said: “Although the intense activity of some of the protagonists leads us up to the present moment, the century is called into question especially the twentieth century, the century of great change, the rights acquired by women, in sync with dramatic changes affecting the apparel as manifesto of social life. “ Accompanying the exhibition there is a catalog edited by Chiarelli, published by Syllables and richly accompanied by pictures of the clothes on display with the form and a short biography of each “Female Protagonist.”
(From 13 November 2013 to 31 December 2020,at Palazzo Pitti)
Exhibition Editors: Catherine Chiarelli, Mauro Linari
Ministry of Cultural Heritage