Confirmed via a tweet that made fashion world go crazy,Nicolas Ghesquière,the former Balenciaga director,who abruptly left the film last November, was declared the one to undertake the role of artistic director in the House of Louis Vuitton,covering Marc Jacobs’ place and most of his duties.The brand also confirmed that Ghesquière will show his first collection next March so there’s plenty of time for speculations,previews,advertising,etc.
Nicolas Ghesquière confirmed the news in WWD, and stated that ”‘Louis Vuitton has always incarnated for me the symbol of ultimate luxury, innovation and exploration. I am very honored of the mission that I am entrusted with, and proud to join the history of this great maison. We share common values and a vision.’
At the same time the House of Louis Vuitton note that Ghesquiere :”will bring a modern creative vision to the house’s women’s collections, building on the values of refinement, savoir faire and extreme quality.’
i must say i find Mr Ghesquière’s work interesting compared to what Marc Jacobs previously did in Louis Vuitton!In his case,the House seem to want to experiment but in a controlled manner,appointing him artistic director of women’s collections at first. Still,he does have a more creative,less commercial approach to fashion plus a background of several years at Balenciaga,a House at the top of the Haute Couture one’s.He has also proved his ability to create chic yet popular accessories,something not to be neglected.
The idea of accessories may be more crucial that it seems at first place.Given that,(according to WWD): ”reporting third-quarter results last month, LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton said revenues in the fashion and leather goods division slipped 3.8 percent to 2.43 billion euros, or $3.22 billion, with Vuitton “slightly” underperforming other brands in the business group, which includes such names as Fendi, Givenchy and Berluti.” The idea of regaining first place in the accessories market is there and Ghesquière has to transform LV to his previous ”luxury and exclusivity” status before LV brand and logo become widely ”commercialized” by Marc Jacobs.On board with Ghesquière, there will also be uber experienced accessories designer Darren Spaziani,whom LV tapped a month or so ago. The idea is simple,the Marc Jacobs’ celebrity-defined era is coming to an end for Luis Vuitton,they need to be ”reincarnated” as a fashion house that is more linked to Haute Couture than ”street wear-influenced” or so.
Will Ghesquière succeed in such a demanding House as Louis Vuitton?At first,it seems obvious he has certain advantages,such as the experience back in Balenciaga along with an unlimited access to LV archives(which Jacobs actually snubbed..)plus artistic guidance by people being long in the LV House. Still,he has to survive tough deadlines,be creative and at the same time increase sales.If i were to say one thing,i would just hope that he will carefully study the past.He has enough talent to go further after doing that, and design beautiful clothes,the way pre-Jacobs Louis Vuitton used to be.