The current post has no intention to add fuel into the speculation of former Balenciaga creative director,Nicolas Ghesquière,replacing Marc Jacobs in Louis Vuitton,after him announcing he will be focusing mostly on his namesake brand. As usual,there has been strong speculation without a firm answer from the House of Louis Vuitton.In fact parent company LVMH has denied the takeover as a final decision. “Nothing has been decided,” an LVMH spokesman told Women’s Wear Daily.Still,this does not count as a ”no”-yet.
The main idea,though is,what has Ghesquière to offer so as to be considered as a step towards a new direction,a new concept for Louis Vuitton, as a brand?Mr Jacobs built a career in LV by boosting the accessories’ sales,still,in the design field,he has presented several collections that bore nothing of the initial dna of the brand. His strong PR skills made his LV shows a must see,for all possible reasons-apart from the clothes themselves.In his effort to respond to a clientele that seemed to put radical over chic,he led the LV concept into territories far from its initial couture tradition,will all the craftsmanship that was available used to pieces more of a commercial that a ”artistic” quality.Weirdly enough,Marc Jacob’s last show for LV,a funereal extravaganza has been characterized as his best so far.
So,given the above,what can Ghesquière add to restore LV as it used to be,a megabrand that sells well-designed pieces as part of the Couture and RTW collections, plus a financial ”staple” in the accessories market.The latter appears the easiest,though.
I personally prefer Mr Ghesquière as a designer,also appreciating his low-profile presence.His work in Balenciaga was interesting,with a strong effort to encompass all Balenciaga basic references-and are many,given the vast Balenciaga archive he had at his disposal. Still Ghesquière isn’t a couturier and neither was Marc Jacobs.By appointing him head of creative direction in LV,the brand makes clear that is aiming to popularize designs so as to reach new profitable markets such as Japan,Russia and China.
Still,i can’t but note that both Balenciaga and LV Houses do have a memorable and strong history in exceptional couture and RTW clothes,a past that both Jacobs and Ghesquière proved unable to translate into a ”contemporary” language of elegance.Having said that,i hardly predict any difference between the Jacobs’ LV and the possible Ghesquière one-should it happens.