Even if anyone was in doubt regarding Marc Jacobs’ status in Louis Vuitton,the SS 2014 fashion show was more than clear that it represented the end of his work at the LV House.In an funereal manner,Jacobs represented pieces from his 16 years past as a creative director in Louis Vuitton.He is not going far,of course,he’s planning,as stated to focus on his namesake brand, in which (surprise!) LVMH appears as an investor.With settings that bore an almost Victorian mourning extravaganza still it was one of the few times that Mr Jacobs actually presented a good,solid collection.He called his current collection as based/dedicated to ”” the showgirl in all of us.” and he did intrigued the part of me that likes extravaganza and appreciates an excellent stage design while watching a runway show.
Still,i kind of find it a kind of joke that Marc Jacobs presented his most mature,wearable,inspired collection as the last one.With the aid of milliner Stephen Jones who designed fabulous headpieces of ostrich plumes to motorbike jackets,dresses adorned with crystals, logos,tuxedo trousers with plumed side stripes, and glossy feathers on fabrics.The atelier’s craftsmanship was so painstakingly accurate in every detail of the outfits, that made many people wonder why didn’t he try something similar in those 16 years of work in Louis Vuitton.
In the beginning of the show,Edie Campbell, dressed only in Stephen Sprouse graffiti and a g-string appeared walking the runway with handcuffs and chains on her hands.Was that a indirect hint that Marc Jacobs’creativity was in fact restrained inside Louis Vuitton codes and longed to be free. Even though this particular collection is as close to Couture as Jacob’s ever managed to be on a RTW show,i remain skeptical. And wait to see his vision using his own brand as a venture for that.