What is actually happening in the House of Saint Laurent?(1rst part)

Ysl-Logo-1975-and-2013

When Kering announced Francesca Bellettini as the new chief executive to parent company Saint Laurent,it did cause certain though mostly because ti included,as Kering chief executive Francois-Henri Pinault put it ”the expand of Hedi Slimane’s  responsibilities” since he,as a creative director, ”has “rejuvenated and repositioned the brand in line with Yves Saint Laurent’s original message in 1966,and, going forward, will supervise all strategic projects for the brand.”. Trusting Hedi Slimane to draw a strategic project in terms of retails seems much too at ease than trusting him creating a actually ”good” collection for the brand he’s named ”Saint Laurent”.Still,Mrs Bellettini will supervise all moves being the House’s CEO plus having a strong managerial background first in Helmut Lang and then in Prada. Hedi Slimane as a creative director will be in charge of all creative ventures of the House yet i sense that Mr Pinault’s no fool,therefore a strong managerial hand above him finally may be a good idea.See,Hedi Slimane has manage so far to confuse Yves Saint Laurent’s devotees by removing ”Yves” from the House’s name yet maintaining it in the accessories line.I’m no expert but i see frequent references to Mr Yves Saint Laurent’s 1966 collection and its ”message”,mostly to acquit Slimane for his fashion atrocities So,let’s see what was it,first place.

Yves Saint Laurent along with industrialist Pierre Bergé, started their own fashion house with funds from Atlanta millionaire J. Mack Robinson in 1960.For the next decade,YSL was the House that would make Tuxedos for women,safari jackets for men and women,tight pants and the idea of the ”beatnik” look in a polished way. YSL’s effort to ”democratize fashion” made him the first couturier announcing a pret-a-porter line in 1966 under the name ”Rive Gauche”.

The whole vocabulary of it was to make women confident, worldly, and sexually liberated,as Yves Saint Laurent himself stated,“I created the contemporary woman’s wardrobe.Chanel freed women, and I empowered them.”.In 1965 he had mentioned that :”There is a new trend in fashion. It is young and strives for attractiveness rather than elegance.”.

”Warhol-influenced Pop Art dresses with red lips and hearts, tuxedos, lace-up safari jackets, jumpsuits, Army/Navy pea coats, and transparent blouses (with breasts fully visible underneath) followed as the decade progressed,mentions Vogue,summing up all the YSL vocabulary that are in use till today.

In 1966  Rive Gauche prêt-à-porter boutique was launched  to sell YSL designs directly to the public—thereby sidestepping the knockoff merchants. With its own identity and boutique, it was the first mass-produced ready-to-wear line by a couturier.It was a step away from the idea of Haute Couture,something more youthful and free-spirited targeting a new audience.AS for the name

rom a late 1960s military jacket Courtesy of catbooks1940s
rom a late 1960s military jacket
Courtesy of catbooks1940s

was the label,a label that YSL would continue occasionally to use along with his basic YSL and by no means as a rival name.

from a 1970s safari-type jacket Courtesy of catbooks1940s
from a 1970s safari-type jacket
Courtesy of catbooks1940s

See also :

from a 1965 dress - Courtesy of kickshawproductions.com
from a 1965 dress – Courtesy of kickshawproductions.com

The idea of re-naming the House SAINT LAURENT is interesting as Hedi Slimane seems to use even the very same font used back in 1966.The only problem is that the 1966 SAINT LAURENT Rive Gauche was an excellent piece of modern pret-a-porter.

YSL posing outside the store with a model in Rive Gauche miniskirt dress
YSL posing outside the store with a model in Rive Gauche miniskirt
YSL posing with Rive Gauche models
YSL posing with Rive Gauche models
!966 stripped dresses for Rive Gauche line
!966 stripped dresses for Rive Gauche line
C. Deneuve modelling a Rive Gauche 1966 dress
C. Deneuve modelling a Rive Gauche 1966 dress

Now,lets see Hedi Slimane’s SAINT LAURENT Paris Fashion Week autumn/winter 2013 designs theoretically based in all the above.

AW13C-SLaurent-003_2499973a AW13C-SLaurent-013_2499970a AW13C-SLaurent-017_2499964a AW13C-SLaurent-026_2499966a AW13C-SLaurent-037_2499992a AW13C-SLaurent-045_2499990a AW13C-SLaurent-060_2499986a AW13C-SLaurent-085_2499982a AW13C-SLaurent-111_2500000a

Remember Grunge?Me,too.he also does.I rest my case for now.

2 thoughts on “What is actually happening in the House of Saint Laurent?(1rst part)

  1. Yves Saint Laurent is not with Rive Gauche models in that photo but with Betty Catroux and Loulou De La Falaise, his best friends and muses.

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