I’ve always had the firm belief that the influence of Madame Elsa Schiaparelli had not been evaluated as it should have been,perhaps buried under the ”myth” of Gabrielle Chanel.Glad that i see now things are changing.Christian Lacroix’s signing to create a capsule couture collection for the House comes as a natural choice given the Schiaparelli style and his talent and vast knowledge of fashion history.Since closing his own label he absorbed himself in theatrical ventures with great success however fashion is in the blood and it’s time for him to remind people he’s probably the most stably talented designers so far.The main issue is whether he would manage to handle Elsa Schiaparelli’s heritage,a more artistic than commercial one.This may be a problem arising of this collaboration for media such as Vogue.com but stating that ”most of Schiaparelli’s inventions have been appropriated by other designers” showcases an unforgiving ignorance of her vision,probably because is not meeting commercial ”basics” in each fashionista’s subconscious.Luckily Lacroix knows best. ”I don’t want to copy her,” stated in Telegraph.co.uk “but try to extract the quintessence of her style which is relevant today. Her heritage is much too often reduced and simplified with emphasis on the crazy, surrealistic side of her clothes. But she could do practical, modern and pure, too, especially during the war. I’m excited to create not what everyone expects.” In other words,he wants to experiment with the art of apparel.A masterclass for Hedi. The house’s permanent creative director, however, has yet to be named so stay tuned.
A piece of history
Elsa Schiaparelli (1890–1973) was an Italian fashion designer influenced by Surrealists like her collaborators Salvador Dalí and Alberto Giacometti.Her House failed to modernize itself during the changes happening in fashion following World War II and her business closed in 1954.She had managed however to create many signature designs with a strong artistic twist.Chanel referred to her as ‘that Italian artist who makes clothes‘ and in certain point has accurate in her categorizing.
Some Schiaparelli designs