I must say that,apart from my personal fondness,Marios Schwab is an editors’ protegee.Imagine the awkwardness caused by his Fall 2014 collection when provided us with utterly ”nothing new”. Was all those ill-tailored sharp lines an aim of becoming the new ”Hedi Slimane”?In any case,the collection had it all,bomber jackets,candles for creating ”atmosphere”,interesting Grecian-inspired dresses,a subtle palette with dark-goth references ,but still all those elements managed NOT to work together.It takes the genius of a McQueen to make them work,indeed and Marios isn’t lacking talent,but clearly he was lacking vision.I give him the credit of being in the process of creating a new one.But this wasn’t happening in that show. Btw,dark-goth related chokers accompanied by 60’s greek mainstream pop still is another faux pas.Just in case you didn’t notice what was happening in the finale.I keep the embellished dresses.Till next time Marios..
“We’re each of us our own chiaroscuro, our own bit of illusion trying to emerge into something solid, something real. We’ve got to forgive ourselves that. I must remember to forgive myself. Because there’s an awful lot of gray to work with. No one can live in the light all the time.”
Latest film of the Vogue.it – A Short Film With series, CHIARA SKURA, a collaboration with Marios Schwab featuring his hot Spring Summer 2012 collection.
THE STIMULEYE presents
A Short Film With Marios Schwab
by Antoine Asseraf & René Habermacher
featuring the SS2012 collection Chiaroscuro
Starring Amy Bailey and Marios Schwab.
Produced in collaboration with Vogue Italia.
Ok, admit it,the last person you’ll think of launching a female underwear line is Marios Schwab. Still,Caren Downie, fashion director of ASOS online (part of their designer support platform are Mario’s underwear designs), would strongly disagree by stating that: ”If someone was destined to design female underwear,there is no other that Marios Schwab.” Well,she knows better.
The London-based designer chooses to celebrate his Greek roots by naming his collection ”Kallisti” (in Greek Καλλίστη,meaning the most beautiful), after an ancient Greek myth including a rival between Hera,Athena and Aphrodite on the matter of beauty..what else? As for the color palette, expect shades of f berry, midnight blue, and poppy red,with hints of black and nude as well as a range of coral, rust, and dusty pink.metal plates to juxtapose the different textures. An intricate work of latticework on bodices, heavily stitched ”Shaper Dresses” plus slip dresses complete the intriguing collection.
The line will comprise 40 pieces – 25 items will be available online in November, while the remaining 15 will hit the site in January. Schwab’s preference of lace,taffeta and mesh are obvious to the whole line. Other highlights of the collection are the All-Over Stretch dress, Wrap Wra and Spider Web bra.
.The designer himself explains: ‘‘The art of mixing underwear elements,all this world of apparel that remains hidden underneath the clothes is a constant source of inspiration.The details in stitching and the techniques used, is something that i recall from my childhood, directly from my father’s work( a underwear design engineer).Now,those elements later became obvious in my overall philosophy of ready-to-wear collections, mostly the idea that the clothing surface pays tribute to what lies beneath!” Marios,we salute you!
Ball gowns,debutante balls and red-carpet dresses have remarkably evolved over the past years and this interesting phenomenon is being captured at the relevant Victoria and Albert Museum Exhibition. As stated by Sonnet Stanfill, co-curator of the exhibition: ” We aim to focus on British design in the year of the Olympics therefore it seemed normal to choose the best evening wear from British designers for display.”
We are talking,of course,of Alexander McQueen gowns,Stella Mc Cartney,Mario’s Schwab and less known but no less skilled Ralph and Russo designs. A ball gown is evocative,having a sense of ceremony and at the same time,provides the canvas for designers to experiment on cut and color.And of course,it is the way it is worn that makes the final impression lasting and the dress itself a sartorial legend in fashion timeline.And we all get fascinated by legends so..save the details below.
”Ballgowns:British Glamour Since 1950” exhibition
19 May-6 January 2013
Victoria And Albert Museum
I personally never seized to believe in Greek Fashion.Not because I’m of Greek origin but,lets say, from a deep feeling that that is worth WILL be widely recognized and there it is,thanks to the valuable effort of the people from the Peloponnesian Folklore Foundation.And that’s how the fabulous exhibition ”SIX plus THREE DESIGNERS took shape.Proudly exhibiting garments from greek designers ranging from Jean Dessès, Yannis Evangelides, James Galanos, Dimis Kritsas, George Stavropoulos, and Yannis Tseklenis along with pieces from the three international ones’, Mary Katrantzou (read:excellent prints),Marios Schwab (perhaps my favorite pattern cutting of all) and,of course, Sophia Kokosalaki with her excellent Grecian-inspired pieces. Ioanna Papantoniou, President of the Peloponnesian Folklore Foundation (who also delivered the opening speech,and her collaborators did their bet to promote Greek culture and art in times that such an endeavor is essential.Congratulations to all.
Now,useful info as its damn worth a visit:
SIX UNIVERSAL& THREE CONTEMPORARY DESIGNERS EXHIBITION
The Hellenic Centre
6-18 Paddington Street