Fashion rumours confirmed-Christophe Lemaire departs Hermes.

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Christophe Lemaire and his depart from Hermes’ creative direction, confirmed a round of last-month rumours that there is a change coming in the House of Hermes.Not that there is such a  difference in sales figures,on the contrary, but the reason provided ”to concentrate on his personal line”, appears..half truth.His full statement was: ” “My own label is growing in an important way and I now really want and need to dedicate myself to it fully.” 

Axel Dumas, Chief Executive Officer of Hermes.stated :”I am very grateful to Christophe for the passion with which he has addressed and enriched the expression of our house in women’s ready-to-wear.Under his artistic direction the métier has renewed its aesthetic and produced very satisfactory financial results. I wish him the greatest success with his own label which is so close to his heart”.

What is crucial to  understand is that Hermes is not a ”one-designer’s”  house,anyone could fit in as long as can follow the guidelines and work creatively on the House’s strong(indeed) dna .Not that Lemaire didn’t do that.But sales turned to focus a bit more on the accessories line rather than the womenswear one.A fresh face will arouse interest about the brand,still any ”newcomer” is expected to be more ”Hermes” and less of his personal style.Unless they somehow collide-and yes i’m thinking Guillaume Henry or perhaps Olivier Theyskens,who recently  parted ways with Theory.Some also bring to the table the name of Isabel Marant,or the idea that Mrs Menkes’ ”outing” of Matthieu Blazy (Maison Martin Margiela) wasn’t irrelevant at all.

We’ll stay tuned with a sense of disappointment as to the actual boundaries a new designer can take the risk to push in such a well-established luxury House such at Hermes.

Chanel FALL-WINTER 2014/15 HAUTE COUTURE SHOW-”The Kaiser Tweeds!”

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”But if I have a lot of imagination, I could tell myself whatever I wanted, you know. I handle myself quite well. I’m kind of fascist with myself, you know. There’s no discussion. There is an order. You follow it.”
~Karl Lagerfeld~

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”I would like to be a one-man multinational fashion phenomenon”.

~Karl Lagerfeld~

 

”Tweed me up!”-The Chanel Fall 2014 Couture Collection:

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”Naomi”-The supermodel effect-Naomi Campbell stuns in Harper’s Bazaar Vietnam cover story.

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Its a fact,Naomi Campbell still has the ”supermodel” effect as shown in a stunning Harper’s Bazaar Vietnam June 2014 editorial story,shot by An Le and styled by Phuong My.

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2014 Met Gala:Charles James’ couture ”ball theme”and the ”baffled” celebrities

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I have never believed that the Met Gala was ”the fashion event of the year”,simply because it’s not working this way.It’s more celebrity-orientated nature and promoting purposed make it interesting in terms of forecasting future business developments in the fashion sector-let alone ”nominating” the ”best dressed” and ”worst”.I quite enjoyed last year’s dressing theme,as ”punk” can be viewed in the least accurate way and still ”look’ punk or rather ”punked”.

This year,it was the fabulous work of Charles James that defined the dress code or, at least,that was required (and expected to).Celebrating both the brand new Anna Wintour Costume Center along with the famed exhibition on the great designer Charles James, full evening dress for men and classic Hollywood glamour for women were the case. What was obvious though, was how far from real classic glamour a- la- Charles James and ”bon gout” the current fashion/celebrity socialites are. There where certain interesting attempts to sartorially approach the theme that are worth featured,simply for the honest approach to a couturier so unique, as there were misses- those you wont find here.Tails and trains anyone?

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Beyonce

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Blake Lively,Ryan Reynolds

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Karlie Kloss

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Lily Aldridge

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Liu Wen

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Benedict Cumberbatch

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Sarah Jessica Parker

 

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Dita Von Teese and Zac Posen(!)

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Alexa Chung

 

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A image is worth a million words-showcasing the ”sartorial baffling” of this years Met Gala as posing in two completely different outfits-Karolina Kurkova posing along Rosie Huntington-Whiteley’s minidress.

 

“Alexander Wang x H&M project”-A collaboration most suitable.

 

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It is verified and,however unexpected it may appear,an “Alexander Wang x H&M project”  is by far a winning  collaboration for both parts. Now,the only question raised is whether H&M will become more of ”Haute Couture” or will Alexander Wang (the Balenciaga creative director) re-shape  his minimalistic  vision  into a high street version.

Wang stated that : ”The idea of collaborations isn’t new anymore, they’ve been done from all angles.When H&M approached me, I wanted to do something different. It will be a new take on a lifestyle offering. It’s a little early [to talk about it], but it’s a completely new take on how they do collaborations.”   His stating that ”wanted to do something different” failed to convince me as i strongly believe he’s actually pursuing the same concept/idea in both his name line and partly in Balenciaga. I expect him presenting another version of his T brand of basics,only with different prize tags. Curious as i am for the outcome, i can’t but feel ”it was about time for this collaboration to happen.”.And this is hardly a praise.

( The  ”Alexander Wang x H&M” project will l feature clothing for both men and women, launching in 250 H&M stores worldwide plus online,from November 6th onwards.)

Alexander Wang announcing collaboration with H&M via Instagram

Alexander Wang announcing collaboration with H&M via Instagram

Kate Moss’ ”sartorial memory collage” for TopShop-The Lookbook.

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Browsing the pieces of Kate Moss’ Lookbook designed for high street mega brand TopShop i can just say that this time there is indeed a visible essence of ”personality”,categorizing the collection to a most interesting one.The inspiration drawn more from Kate Moss’ favorite pieces (some vintage) and not from current trends, guarantee a series of items that aim to make each client feel ”unique” and yet ”fashionable” .Not an easy task,mind you.

Mrs Moss opted for creating several ”mood boards” which were used as the basis of inspiration for the four plus Katy England TopShop design crew.Needless to say,the approach is far more creating a ”mood” than just capturing trends,aka successful in its own terms.

(Prizes range from about $70 to $1,200, and will be available in-store and online at Topshop, Nordstrom, ShopBAZAAR.com and Net-a-Porter.)

Kate Moss modeled the collection,lensed by Nick Night.

 

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One of her ”mood boards”,showcasing the inspiration as a ”sartorial memory collage” : 

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Veronika Scott awarded DVF People’s Voice Award at the 5th Annual DVF Award Ceremony

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This year marks the 5th anniversary of the DVF Awards. The DVF Awards were created in 2010 by Diane von Furstenberg and the Diller-von Furstenberg Family Foundation to honor and support extraordinary women who have had the courage to fight, the power to survive and the leadership to inspire. Women who have transformed the lives of others through their commitment, resources and visibility.Winner Veronika Scott is the  founder and CEO of The Empowerment Plan.Born to parents that struggled with unemployment, mental health issues, and addiction made her carry these burdens with her for years, it wasn’t until college that Veronika was able to use her experiences to her advantage. To start, she built an organization around a single idea: to design a self-heated, weather-resistant coat that transforms into a sleeping bag for the homeless. That idea evolved into a system of empowerment in which homeless mothers are paid to learn how to produce the coat, giving them an opportunity to earn money, find a place to live, and gain back their independence. The mission of The Empowerment Plan is to prove that homeless parents have worth and are fully capable of learning and adapting to create a better future for themselves and their families. Veronika is the youngest recipient of the John F. Kennedy New Frontier Award from the JFK Library Foundation and Harvard University. She has also received an IDEA Gold Award from the Industrial Design Society of America. The Empowerment Plan story has been told across the world and shared at events such as the World Summit on Innovation and Entrepreneurship and the Forbes 400 Philanthropy Summit.

“Growing up with addicts for parents, everyone treated me as if I was just an extension of them. I spent my childhood trying to prove to people that I had value and that I was worth investing in. Every woman we hire at The Empowerment Plan has experienced so much in her life and yearns for the chance to be given a clean slate and to have someone see them for the amazing, talented, and valuable person that they are.”

Diane Von Furstenberg with Sara Jessica Parker

Diane Von Furstenberg with Sara Jessica Parker at the 5th Annual DVF Award Ceremony

David Koma Joins Mugler-The ”Big Bet”

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It seems that they are kind of unsure of what exactly is that they want there in the Mugler family.First hiring Nicola  Formicetti as an artistic director to an iconic house,who actually did nothing but produce bad tasted extravaganza mostly suited for his muse,Lady Gaga,and now David Koma joins in as an artistic director.David Koma is known for his body conscious pieces and his fierce use of color,two qualities that indeed match the Mugler core lines.On the other hand,his ”look” is more understated and certainly lacks the gramdeur that the initial Mugler designs. In any case, he officially undertakes  his new role in January- presenting his first collection for the brand in June with a debut catwalk  in September during Paris Fashion Week,an event,of course,much expected. “We agreed that we wanted a real couturier,” Courtin-Clarins told WWD. with David Koma adding: “I am deeply honoured to take up the role of artistic director at Mugler – a house for which I have the utmost admiration and respect.For me, Mugler is the most extraordinary fashion house with an undeniably audacious heritage.” And its exactly this audacious heritage that he is now expected to study, understand and recreate it in its modern form. The material’s all here, the key now its in the process.Will David Koma prove himself to be a ”poor choice” as Formicetti did? No,if he plays it clever and works it hard

-David Koma-LFW Spring-Summer-2014,backstage

-David Koma-LFW Spring-Summer-2014,backstage

British Fashion Awards 2013 Award Winners announced plus after Show party images!

Rupert Everett, Donatella Versace, Kate Moss, Christopher Kane & Sir Philip Green

Rupert Everett, Donatella Versace, Kate Moss, Christopher Kane & Sir Philip Green

Suzy Menkes & Joan Burstein CBE

Suzy Menkes & Joan Burstein CBE

The British Fashion Council (BFC) is delighted to announce the winners of the British Fashion Awards 2013. Voted for by over 300 individuals in the fashion industry, the winners were awarded at the annual ceremony that took place Monday 2nd December at the London Coliseum. Guests including Samantha Cameron, Donatella Versace, Kate Moss, Harry Styles, Miuccia Prada, Gwyneth Paltrow, Sienna Miller, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and Tinie Tempah gathered to celebrate the successes of the fashion industry over the past year.

The evening saw a total of 16 awards presented to the leading figures in fashion, recognising creative talent and design excellence across all areas of the industry. The ceremony was hosted by one of the UK’s most exciting comedy talents, Jack Whitehall, and was attended by industry members, including retailers, models, celebrities and media, and for the first time this year, members of the public who purchased tickets to attend.

Natalie Massenet, Chairman of the British Fashion Council commented, “The roll call of winners announced this evening is a phenomenal display of talent in the fashion industry. The British Fashion Awards give us the chance to commend not only the winners but celebrate all of the individuals that contribute to the incredible achievements that make London the best fashion destination in the world. I’m incredibly proud to be a part of the ceremony this evening, set in the heart of our creative capital; it provides the perfect climax to a truly momentous year of British fashion.”

Agi Mdumulla & Sam Cotton, Suzy Menkes OBE, Lady Amanda Harlech, J.W. Anderson & Arizona Muse, Simone Rocha & Tim Walker

Agi Mdumulla & Sam Cotton, Suzy Menkes OBE, Lady Amanda Harlech, J.W. Anderson & Arizona Muse, Simone Rocha & Tim Walker

The prestigious Womenswear Designer of the Year accolade was awarded to Christopher Kane. The award, which is given to a designer who has been instrumental in enhancing women’s fashion, recognises a triumphant year for the London-based brand. Christopher Kane has developed a reputation as one of the most talented and innovative British designers. Securing a partnership deal with the Kering Group followed by another two internationally acclaimed ready-to-wear collections at London Fashion Week have established Christopher Kane as a leading global star.

The honour of Outstanding Achievement in Fashion was awarded to Terry and Tricia Jones by collaborator, colleague and family friend, Dylan Jones OBE. This special award is one of the most significant of the evening; it celebrates and recognises the iconic couple’s tremendous contribution to the fashion industry. i-D Magazine, founded by Terry and Tricia in 1980, became the leading source of creative inspiration for it’s generation. 30 years on, it continues to impact the fashion industry on an international scale.

To recognise the ever-increasing globalisation of the fashion industry, the International Designer of the Year award was introduced this year to celebrate an influential international designer making waves on the global fashion scene. The inaugural award was won by Miuccia Prada for Prada. Miuccia Prada, who has been named in Time magazine’s list of the 100 Most Influential People of the 20th Century, is renowned for her season defining collections that consistently set the agenda of the fashion industry.

British brand Burberry enjoyed a double celebration on the evening, winning both the Designer Brand of the Year and the Menswear Designer of the Year award, which was given to Christopher Bailey for Burberry. In June 2013, Burberry presented their first menswear collection in London after more than 10 years of showing in Milan. Following Bailey’s Hockney and Bennett inspired SS14 collection at London Collections: Men, the Burberry Prorsum menswear collection is now established as an unmissable fixture on the London show schedule.

Lady Amanda Harlech received the Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator in recognition of her creative inspiration and influence in the fashion industry. Lady Harlech has had an unprecedented impact in defining the mood of global fashion through her career spanning three decades, working alongside creative visionaries including John Galliano and Karl Lagerfeld.

Nicholas Kirkwood was named Accessory Designer of the Year marking the third time the designer has been honoured with the award. Kirkwood’s impressive international business won the BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund award this year, followed by the opening of a flagship store in Las Vegas and the launch of both a pre-collection and menswear line. Kirkwood’s iconic footwear recently gained investment from luxury goods group LVMH and is stocked internationally by over 150 retailers.

London is renowned as the fashion world’s capital of ideas and innovation and the winners of the emerging talent awards reinforce this reputation. Simone Rocha was named Emerging Womenswear Designer and is fast becoming one of the hottest tickets at London Fashion Week; Design duo Agi & Sam received the Emerging Menswear Designer award, following a breakthrough year which saw their first standalone catwalk show at London Collections: Men; and Sophia Webster collected the Emerging Accessory Designer award in recognition of her footwear label’s impressive ascent to a flourishing designer business.

J.W. Anderson has risen to the forefront of the international spotlight this year and was named the New Establishment Designer for 2013. This award celebrates London’s unique talents as they transition from emerging talent to brand whilst taking the industry by storm. J.W. Anderson’s uncompromising vision for originality has gained him traction with a global audience. This award commends Anderson’s increasing stature on the international stage and ability to define the future of the fashion industry.

British model Edie Campbell was crowned Model of the Year. The past 12 months have seen Edie star in multiple international campaigns for brands including Alexander McQueen, Marc Jacobs and Lanvin, in addition to numerous editorial shoots and landing her first British Vogue cover. Dominating the SS14 catwalks, Edie walked the runway in New York, London and Paris, opening shows for Burberry, Saint Laurent and Louis Vuitton.

Erdem was the recipient of this year’s Red Carpet Award. Renowned for collections that portray femininity and modern elegance, Erdem’s fanbase comprises industry figures and celebrities alike. The Duchess of Cambridge, Gwyneth Paltrow, Samantha Cameron and Keira Knightly have all graced the red carpet in his creations, creating a global phenomenon of his designs in the media.

Decided entirely by public vote, the British Style Award brought to you by Vodafone was awarded to Harry Styles. The British Style Award recognises an individual who most embodies the spirit of London and is an international ambassador for London as a leading creative fashion capital. The pop star icon was presented the accolade by three-time British Style Award winner, Alexa Chung.

In addition to the award category winners announced on the night, Special Recognition Awards celebrated two individuals who have shaped the fashion industry over the past 25 years: Suzy Menkes OBE was honoured with the award in recognition of her 25-year career at the International New York Times, formerly the IHT; British supermodel and icon Kate Moss was acknowledged for her 25-year long career and continued influence on the fashion industry as the fashion icon of her generation.

This year, the BFC approached over 300 members of the fashion industry to vote for the winners of this year’s accolades. The panel included world leading industry insiders including journalists, buyers, influencers and opinion formers including Anna Wintour OBE, Laura Bailey, Glenda Bailey OBE, Alex Bilmes, Tim Blanks, Joan Burstein CBE, Alison Edmond, Edward Enninful, Poppy Delevingne, Dylan Jones OBE, Lulu Kennedy MBE, Jefferson Hack, Suzy Menkes OBE, Natalie Massenet MBE, Alexandra Shulman OBE, Justine Picardie and Lorraine Candy.

The BFC would like to thank this year’s British Fashion Awards Presenting Sponsors Canon, M.A.C, TONI&GUY, Vodafone and Westfield and our Sponsors American Express, Hello!, Marks & Spencer, Mercedes Benz, Patron and Warsteiner.

From a Lady Sybilia point of view:

With the honour of Outstanding Achievement in Fashion awarded to Terry and Tricia Jones founders of  i-D Magazine,as a leading venture of showcasing creativity and style,its pretty well obvious which aesthetics is fashion industry heading to.And are not mine.Plus i wonder which were Mrs Suzy Menkes’ opinion on that particular honour.The rest in the following post,analyzing honours,trends,the CFDA role in fashion industry etc.Stay tuned today.

Antonio Berardi & Rosie Huntington-Whiteley

Antonio Berardi & Rosie Huntington-Whiteley

Antonio Berardi

Antonio Berardi

Arizona Muse

Arizona Muse

David Koma

David Koma

Erdem Moralioglu & Laura Bailey

Erdem Moralioglu & Laura Bailey

Lulu Guinness OBE

Lulu Guinness OBE

Miuccia Prada

Miuccia Prada

Natalie Massenet MBE & Christopher Bailey MBE

Natalie Massenet MBE & Christopher Bailey MBE

Rita Ora & Donatella Versace

Rita Ora & Donatella Versace

Yasmin Le Bon

Yasmin Le Bon

Award Winners 2013

Isabel Marant for H&M-Parisian chic meets ”fake frenzy”.

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ISABEL-MARANT-READY-TO-WEAR-FALL-WINTER-2013/2014-PARIS FASHION WEEK

I belong to the tribe of fashion people that regardless of my 50’s style obsessions,i do like Isabel Marant’s work. She has the ability to create uber cool yet very french (in the good sense) outfits that match with almost anything and manage to appear fabulous and quality items. Its been, no doubt about that,probably the most anticipated high-street collaboration, creating a frenzy amongst shoppers and fashion lovers.But how genuine is actually this kind of excess?

The question that arises is ”how good did actually know Marant’s work” all those people recently queuing for an H&M Isabel Marant signed item? Probably even less than Maison Martin Margiela, another famous H&M collaboration with a avant-garde high class brand. Marant’s work was labeled as ”parisian boho chic” with body conscious outfit yet never overtly sexual. Marant herself says she is “a representative French girl … my clothes say more about me than anything else”,a statement which i find it correct.The plus that Isabel Marant’s collections have to support a successful collaboration with high street H&M is that her statement dresses,her tribal influences along with the fantastic dresses for a night out can be easily ”transcripted” into high street language without losing their versatility and charm.

What is strange is that it was Marant herself that has dismissed copies of her designs,being a strong opponent of high-street stores copying her designs, even declaring such a behavior is “disgusting” and “vulgar”. That being said,we can add that at least the H&M pieces won’t be exact copies,but rather a lighter,cheaper version of the core pieces Isabel Marant has been creatively transforming over the years.Personally i am not certain whether this was a clever move for her.Aiming at a bigger audience is an important factor, still a bigger audience can easily make your work ”lose character”. And all those of us who actually observed Marant’s work since her French Vogue’s presentations,wouldn’t like it.But hey,its business. And advertising. And queuing. And order cancelling if necessary.

Now,people that probably haven’t even heard of the name ”Marant” or actually understood the collections are queuing to obtain a piece of the much sought H&M collection.This can only explain the crash of the on-line order system before actually the items make their premiere in shops.

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