Peter Lindbergh lenses Léa Seydoux for Interview Magazine September 2014

Styled by Ludivine Poiblanc, Peter Lindbergh lenses actress Léa Seydoux in a black and white series full of french sensuality.

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The Fashion Spot notes: ”Fall 2014 Campaigns Low on Model Diversity”.

Recently i came across a very interesting written piece that is dealing with something i thought i was past-diversity amongst models in fashion campaigns and advertisements.How wrong i where!Here’s the piece,courtesy of ”The Fashion Spot” and Elena Drogaytseva.

It’s no secret that the fashion industry has a diversity problem. It’s an issue that has been visited again and again, but still somehow remains a problem season after season. Last year, Bethann Hardison and the Diversity Coalition sent out letters to fashion’s governing bodies in New York, Milan, Paris and London, calling out designers who failed to use more than one (or simply no) models of color on their runways. “Whether it’s the decision of the designer, stylist or casting director, that decision to use basically all white models, reveals a trait that is unbecoming to society,” each letter reads.

Since the letters were sent out, there seems to have been a conscious decision by a few designers to add a little more diversity, not only on their runways, but in their campaigns. But how far-reaching are these efforts? If the Fall 2014 campaign season is any indication, the answer is not very.

 

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We combed through 283 fashion campaigns this season (leaving out beauty and fragrance) to see just how diverse the Fall 2014 campaigns were. We looked at every girl, taking special note of any women of color used this season. We classified POC as any nonwhite person of African, Asian, Middle Eastern or Native descent, also adding multiracial women into the pot. Fashion is all about appearances, and while there were some women who could technically be considered “ethnic” (at least to the Western world, which is a whole other issue in itself), we only counted those women who appeared to be of color. It’s nice and all to use a girl of, say, partly Middle Eastern descent, but if she simply looks white when you look at the campaign, you’re going to read “white.” Diversity is something that needs to be seen, and if it doesn’t register, then it’s pretty much not there.

On to the girls. As one might expect, the numbers were pretty bleak. We counted roughly 285 girls used in the campaigns. Out of those, only 32 were models of color, about 11 percent of the total girls. The models of color featured the most were Binx Walton, who appeared in Balmain,Chanel and CoachMalaika Firth, who posed for Burberry, Tommy Hilfiger and Zara TRF and Joan Smalls, making appearances in Gucci, ICB by Prabal Gurung and Missoni. Other standouts included Issa Lish(Balmain, Coach), Ysaunny Brito (Balmain, Neil Barrett), Liya Kebede(H&MLouis Vuitton), Tian Yi (MarisfrolgMICHAEL Michael Kors), Bonnie Chen (Brunello CucinelliHogan) and Liu Wen (La PerlaMO&Co.).

Comparing the top girls of color to the top girls overall this Fall 2014 campaign season, there isn’t really much of a comparison. Each of the top three girls of color was only featured three times. Whereas the top white models like Gisele Bündchen, Andreea Diaconu and Karmen Pedaru boast between six and seven appearances each, Binx, Joan and Malaika have only half of those. In fact, Karlie Kloss, Lindsey Wixson, Josephine Skriver, Gigi Hadid, Freja Beha Erichsen, Crista Cober and Josephine Le Tutour weren’t even included in our “top girls” category and they still were featured more times (four each) than our top three girls of color.

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Roughly 31 percent of the models of color were used more than once, compared to white models who were featured more than once about 35 percent of the time. Balmain took the crown for most diverse campaign, as one of the only ones to have predominantly cast models of color.

So, what does this say about Fall 2014 fashion? Obviously, the numbers are disheartening. The fact that there were so few models of color used for any campaigns shows that although there are some designers who are happy to pay lip service to the industry’s diversity issue, there are few who actually step up and feature nonwhite models in campaigns. Runway diversity improved a paltry 1 percent from the Spring 2014 season (at least in New York), since Hardison & co. sent out those letters, and it appears that the Fall 2014 campaigns aren’t doing too hot, either. Roughly 79 percent of the models used on the runways were white. For the latest campaigns, it hovers around 89 percent.

Whether the exclusion is conscious or unconscious, the fact of the matter is that there simply needs to be more representation. Lots of times, casting directors attribute the lack of diversity to the fact that agencies don’t have as many models of color available, but if Andreea can be cast in six campaigns, why not Joan, Liu, Binx or Issa?

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There is little excuse, really. We can only hope that looking at these cold, hard numbers will inspire designers and casting directors to be a little more conscious of who they’re choosing for campaigns in the future. There simply needs to be more diversity — period. Fashion is a global industry and there are beautiful, tall, skinny (body diversity is another issue, but we won’t go there) women of all races and nationalities all around the world. Model scouts: You can find them. Casting directors: You can book them. Designers: You need to demand them.

Lady Sybilia: Disclaimer regarding the recent Kidman/Steven Klein for Interview editorial feature.

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Disclaimer: Even though i chose to feature the recent Kidman/Klein editorial for Interview Magazine,i understand and share its potential offensive status,a status that,to my opinion,can’t be justified by means of ‘artistic freedom’.In any case,its not a gallery, we are talking about,is a feature to a mainstream fashion/lifestyle magazine (Interview)  dealing with  issues as sensitive as rape and male violence…Thanks.

 

”Nicole”- Steven Klein’s controversial editorial with NIcole Kidman for Interview Magazine September 2014

Nicole Kidman stuns at this controversial editorial with a strong cinematic feel, lensed by Steven Klein,styled by Karl Templer for  the September issue of Interview magazine.

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Emmy Awards 2014 Best Dressed plus the ultimate sartorial winner- by Lady Sybilia

Now, that’s more glamour and therefore,more sartorial interest when it comes to Emmy Awards.This year have been a challenging one as celebrities seemed to compete on the ‘safe’ side of fashion choices.However,there where a few persons that did make the difference.The other..yawn…

CAT DEELEY

CAT DEELEY

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HALLE BARRY

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HAYDEN PANETTIERE

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JANUARY JONES

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SOFIA VERGARA

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CLAIRE DANES

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LIZZY CAPLAN

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HEIDI KLUM

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SARAH HYLAND

 

Camila Alves

CAMILA ALVES

Teyonah Parris

TEYONAH PARRIS

 

AND THE ABSOLUTE WINNER IS..:

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CHRISTINA HENDRICKS

 

”Behind her Eyes”by photographer Fulvio Maiani for Scarlett Magazine.

Fulvio Maiani is one of my favorite photographer and i closely follow his work and artistic development.His recent editorial ticked all boxes to success -the chic way!

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-Fashion Michael Dye
– Model Agne Petkute @ IMG Models
– Hair Piergiuseppe Moroni
– Make Up Arianna Campa

MIu MIu goes 60s for Fall 2014 Campaign,starring Stacy Martin,lensed by Steven Meisel

A campaign shot by Steven Meisel focused on the cinematic view and the antithesis of black and white.The overall styling suggests influences from Warhol to Mary Quant 60’s.Actress Stacy Martin carries out her role impeccable,providing the perfect match to the photographer’s concept.

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‘Pink Flamingos’ shot by Sofia Sanchez & Mauro Mongiello for Numero Magazine September 2014

Model Auguste Abeliunaite captured by Sofia Sanchez & Mauro Mongiello for Numero Magazine September 2014. Styled by Samuel Francois.
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‘pontifex maximus’ a fashion project/collection by designer Lasha Devdariani

‘pontifex maximus‘ is the name of the fashion project/lookbook of designer Lasha Devdariani in close collaboration with photographer Data Pirtskhalava and model Tina  Dalakishvili. The minimal outfits lensed in black/white antithesis revoke influences ranging from  punk/post apocalyptic elegance to the all black outfits of Greek Orthodox priests.

 

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Lasha Devdariani,holds a Master’s Degree in Fashion Design, Fine Arts Academy of Georgia; graduated with Bachelor’s Degree in State Art and Costume Design at the State Theatre and Cinema University.Professional experience obtained over years in ateliers and studios of various celebrity designers. Over 4 years of teaching practice, exhibitions, collections, personal shows, over 20 student exhibitions. In 2011-2012 participated in Autumn-Winter Tbilisi Fashion Week. In 2011-2012 won the title of the Spring-Summer Newcomers Show. Admires fashion with creative attitudes and author’s vision towards the culture and style of clothes thus depicting the emotion and intellect in exquisite forms, strive to progress in the personal development of the creator and willingness to learn. Lasha Devdariani has won “ Be Next” Fashion Design Contest 2012.

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pantifik maximus’ by lasha devdariani, film by katalina bakradze, director of photography levan maisuradze, plus model mariam areshidze

MTV Awards 2014:Red Carpet Best Dressed

MTV awards have always been a  tricky red carpet experience,given the fact that most artists choose to attend with outfits close to their stage styling.This year wasn’t an exception.Given that,Sybilia”s Best Dressed list is as follows.

CHANEL IMAN

CHANEL IMAN

DEMI LOVATO

DEMI LOVATO

IGGY AZALEA

IGGY AZALEA

JENNIFER LOPEZ

JENNIFER LOPEZ

KIM KARDASHIAN

KIM KARDASHIAN

MICHELLE WILLIAMS

MICHELLE WILLIAMS