About Lady Sybilia

Fashion Editor/.Art lover "your style keeps talking even when you're out of things to say"

The British Fashion Council Awards-English National Opera 01 Dec 14 – 01 Dec 14-Be there!

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British designers and creatives are renowned for their ability to set the global fashion agenda. Each year the British Fashion Awards celebrates their creativity and success. Established in 1989, the British Fashion Awards has been celebrating the contributions of British designers, creatives and models to the international fashion scene for more than 20 years.

The British Fashion Awards 2014 will once again see the top designers, hottest models, renowned fashion editors, stylists and industry vips joined by a glamorous line up of celebrity guests, presenters and performers.

Don’t miss this opportunity to join the stars of the fashion industry in celebrating the best of British fashion.We’ll be there!

Lanvin Fall/Winter 2014-2015 full campaign by Tim Walker.

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Tim Walker recruits  the ”Campbell’s” (Edie Campbell, Olympia Campbell,Roddy Campbell) plus Sophie Hicks to model Lamvin’s Fall Winter 14/15 campaign.The photographer’s vision is so strong that you come to forget all things negative ( for example that Mr Campbell isn’t much of a model) and enjoy,instead a Lanvin chic-surrealist party where.. ”anything can happen!”

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Fashion rumours confirmed-Christophe Lemaire departs Hermes.

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Christophe Lemaire and his depart from Hermes’ creative direction, confirmed a round of last-month rumours that there is a change coming in the House of Hermes.Not that there is such a  difference in sales figures,on the contrary, but the reason provided ”to concentrate on his personal line”, appears..half truth.His full statement was: ” “My own label is growing in an important way and I now really want and need to dedicate myself to it fully.” 

Axel Dumas, Chief Executive Officer of Hermes.stated :”I am very grateful to Christophe for the passion with which he has addressed and enriched the expression of our house in women’s ready-to-wear.Under his artistic direction the métier has renewed its aesthetic and produced very satisfactory financial results. I wish him the greatest success with his own label which is so close to his heart”.

What is crucial to  understand is that Hermes is not a ”one-designer’s”  house,anyone could fit in as long as can follow the guidelines and work creatively on the House’s strong(indeed) dna .Not that Lemaire didn’t do that.But sales turned to focus a bit more on the accessories line rather than the womenswear one.A fresh face will arouse interest about the brand,still any ”newcomer” is expected to be more ”Hermes” and less of his personal style.Unless they somehow collide-and yes i’m thinking Guillaume Henry or perhaps Olivier Theyskens,who recently  parted ways with Theory.Some also bring to the table the name of Isabel Marant,or the idea that Mrs Menkes’ ”outing” of Matthieu Blazy (Maison Martin Margiela) wasn’t irrelevant at all.

We’ll stay tuned with a sense of disappointment as to the actual boundaries a new designer can take the risk to push in such a well-established luxury House such at Hermes.

THE ANN DEMEULEMEESTER ARCHIVE, ANTWERP-Exclusively in ‘A Magazine’,lensed by Belgian photographer Zeb Daemen

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As the legacy of Ann Demeulemeester’s work lives on under the direction of French designer Sebastien Meunier, A Magazine presents an exclusive portfolio by Belgian photographer Zeb Daemen captured in the designer’s native Antwerp. In and around the woodland grottos and outdoor sculptures of Middleheim Park, iconic Belgian model Kim Peers embodies the wild spirit of a pagan deity, wearing designs from the Autumn Winter 2014-2015 collection alongside signature pieces courtesy of the Ann Demeulemeester archive.

Photography by Zeb Daemen
Creative Direction & Styling by Dan Thawley

Hair by Eva Peeters
Photography Assistant: Gretar Ingi Gunnlaugsson
Stylist Assistant: Casper Nowaks
Model: Kim Peers @ Next Models
Graphic Design: Pierre-Yves Morvan

With thanks to Sebastien Meunier, Michele Montagne, Katou Van Dyck & Céline de Schepper

http://www.anndemeulemeester.be

(re posted from A magazine,http://www.amagazinecuratedby.com/news/ann-demeulemeester-by-zeb-daemen/)

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Paule Ka F/W 2014-2015 ad campaign-”First be a Woman”

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Not surprisingly,one of my favorite ad campaigns for the  Fall/Winter 2014-2015 season.”First be a woman”,aided by sartorial elegance and personal style. Raquel Zimmermann is the epitome of class in this great spread, lensed by Andreas Larsson.

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The Dolce &Gabbana Fall/Winter 2014/2015 Capri collection-A Mediterranean Fairy tale.

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”There is no end. There is no beginning. There is only the passion of life.”

~Federico Fellini~

“It’s about the beauty of Italy – we don’t really have Alta Moda here – we wanted to do something for our country.”

~Stefano Gabbana~

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The Dolce &Gabbana Fall/Winter 2014/2015 collection was something of a performance,with male models acting as ushers and female ones being helped getting on location,(a private place in the Island Of Capri). The fashion crowd was seated alongside a traditional Mediterranean style house-hotel and the models reached the land via water,walking past the seated A-lister’s. Interesting,no doubt. As for the outfits,well,i find it difficult to say anything seriously negative about the work of the famous design duo.Of course,design/style obsessions are to be expected and ever present,but what else fashion is than the transformation of those very obsessions into art via a creative process?Oh,did i mention how much i like fans?I’m getting another of my  own sometime soon,preferably customized!Just like being in a Visconti or early Fellini film!
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Valentino Fall/Winter 2014-2015 full ad campaign lensed by David Bailey.

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The House of Valentino along with photographer David Bailey casts top models Maartje Verhoef, Ine Neefs, Josephine van Delden and Harleth Kuusik to star in the Valentino Fall/Winter 2014-2015 campaign and the result is a refined 60s look yet in an oh-so modern version.

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The mind revisits Alexander Mc Queen’s world.

”There is something sinister, something quite biographical about what I do – but that part is for me. It’s my personal business. I think there is a lot of romance, melancholy. There’s a sadness to it, but there’s romance in sadness. I suppose I am a very melancholy person.”
~Alexander McQueen~

#13, September 1998 London

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

”..leaving the page of the book carelessly open,
something unsaid, the phone off the hook
and the love, whatever it was, an infection.”
~Anne Sexton~

It’s Only a Game, October 2004 Paris La Dame Bleue, October 2007 Paris Pantheon Ad Lucem, March 2004 Paris Sarabande, October 2006 Paris Scanners, March 2003 Paris The Girl Who Lived in The Tree, March 2008 Paris Untitled, March 2010 Paris Voss, September 2000 London2

‘WHO IS ON NEXT ?’10TH ANNIVERSARY EXHIBITION AT MUSEO DI ROMA

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To mark the 10th anniversary of “Who Is On Next?” the fashion scouting project organized by Altaroma in collaboration with Vogue Italia, targeted at the search for and the promotion of young, creative talents of Made in Italy fashion, an exclusive exhibition, designed to trace its history and honour the creative talents who have participated, will be presented in Rome.
Since 2005 to-date, more than 100 designers have emerged from this scouting and selection process. Italians and foreigners have chosen our country not only to develop their creations but also to make their dreams come true. In fact, here they have found master saddlers, textile districts and premium footwear manufacturers, leather goods makers and companies which, thanks to their expertise and professionalism, give life to signature collections designed for the luxury market.

“WHO IS ON NEXT?, defined by the international press as one of the ten most important competitions in the world, has seen the emergence of designers, by now well-established names on the international fashion scene who, in addition to their own individual collections, are also engaged in prestigious collaborations with leading brands in the fashion system.
The aim of the exhibition is to celebrate ALTAROMA and VOGUE ITALIA but, above all, those who now represent excellence, the new generation of Made in Italy fashion.

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the new fashion generation
Exhibition opening
By invitation
The exhibition will run through the 11th of September 2014

MONDAY 7/14/2014 – 19.00-21.00
MUSEO DI ROMA
PALAZZO BRASCHI
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Yiquing Yin/Serkan Cura/ Augustine Temboul: My One’s to watch.

With  all ”Official” Fashion& Couture Week heading to an end end,i felt i should enjoy it a bit more and dedicate a post to the designers that made me personally think; “Whow,there’s talent out there!’‘ .Sometimes media-related fashion critics pay way too much attention to Hedi just because he has to prove he’s the ”Hedi Slimane” they envisioned. This can be dangerous and,naturally,not favorable to creativity.Still,in the  designers to follow,the only thing that’s not absent is creativity itself!

-Yiqing Yin for Leonard

French designer Yiqing Yin has long ago proved that her personal aesthetics and her meticulous attention to detail when it comes to craftsmanship can create magic,no wonder why she is now strategically placed as creative director of the French fashion house Leonard. Her first collection for the House took place in Paris Fashion Week F/W 2014 with the reviews being triumphant for a debut collection.Still,the is no exaggeration to say that she carefully study the House’s archives ,then used all those traditional house prints remixed and recoloured!She also admitted that she dived into the house’s dna only to find more inspiration: ”I really drew on the (Leonard) archives, especially the 1960s and 1970s which I found more interesting (and) modern than what has been done recently. There was more energy, it was more international.” Her long,fluid silhouettes present a world of rebellious glamour,where re-designed basics (such as the LBD) go along/complement dreamy yet impressive outfits.

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Serkan Cura Couture Fall 2014

For me Serkan Cura is already a true Couturier that just didn’t want to give up the idea of clothes made for the beauty of it,not necessarily to be worn.Using fluidity where necessary and experimenting with 3D,its not surprising that she caught the attention of Iris Van Herpen.The designer also claims he has a patent-all the upper part of his ‘wedding” dress, sculpted from feathers that were painted with exactly this secret patent,to acquire volume. “You coat it, it pops like popcorn, and then it becomes very strong,” he explained backstage.At last,some fashion fun!!

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 Augustine Temboul S/S 2015

The designer duo’s Augustine Temboul presentation of their S/S 2015 “SHINY VOID  collection made the idea of a ”Shiny Void” way too metaphorical in a semiotic form as most of the outfits’ colors ranged from black to pitch black.Still, there was anything but a tedious parade of black LBD. Augustine Temboul tend to make each presentation into a performance and so they successfully did once more! See,it is the way the fabrics are cut,the solid pattern forms and the exploration of femininity within a dark canvas that uplifted the whole collection.Regarding fabrics,let us not forget that they have been nominated for the International Woolmark Prize 2014/15 (Europe).And that says a lot!

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As for my favorite of all,Olivier Theyskens, ,i feel i should make a whole new post now that Theyskens’ Theory no longer exists.Because he’s worth it.