Dolce et Gabbana Spring 2015 Ready-to-Wear:”The Spanish Invasion”

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My personal preference of Dolce et Gabbana’s work might make this short review somehow biased still i can’t but find interesting the duos shift of inspiration:from Sicily life to Spain’s invasion to this land. As Stefano Gabbana pointed out: ” After a 200-year occupation,the Spanish left a lot of things: baroque, religion, colour, flowers”. Merging the above with Sicilian religious motifs and a strong vision on female sexuality,Dolce et Gabbana delivered a flawless collection,perhaps too ”D&G”, still,in the end of the day,this is their visual vocabulary distilled into fitted outfits,matador jackets,flamenco skirts and corsets as a means to reshape the female silhouette.With castanets as headgear and super designed transparent shoes,the house rocks,still will probably soon be looking elsewhere for inspiration.in the meantime let us enjoy this one!

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“Fairy Queen” editorial lensed by Phil Poynter for Vogue Germany October 2014

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Tom Ford Spring 2015 Ready-to-Wear-”Is that Fashion?”

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Currently revisiting Freeland’s maverick issue on modern art (”Is that Art?”) i could not but pose the same simple question to fashion scholars and editors: ”Is that Fashion?”When a show like the Tom Ford Spring 2015 Ready-to-Wear one delivers  everything associated with cheapness minus the creative bit to later acquire positive reviews, then something’s seriously rotten in the Kingdom of Denmark. The urge to theoretically convince us that ”this is fashion” is there only to prevent by stating the obvious,that we are seriously being misled by an army of editors, publishers and PR experts.Still, no PR or advertising rules will ever be connected with the fashion collection itself,meaning,the garments themselves. Btw, ‘‘he knows how to create a good picture” is not only what’s asked from a fashion designer to do,therefore i read the ‘second notion review’ of Mr Tim Blank,for example, as an excuse and not as a praise.

 

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Mary Katrantzou Spring 2015 Ready/to/Wear-Oceanic Magnitude

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Let me first acknowledge the fact that i like Mary Katranzou’s work-in fact there is hardly an item i wouldn’t wear or suggest others to.This time,was no exception.The same enjoyable surprise,the same sense of a fashion fun designer and,most of all,great outfits that don’t let you feel betrayed.There’s plenty of inspiration in Mary Katranzou’s mind so as to quickly overcome her signature digital prints and move to 3D-much to my delight.This time was about design being created by textures,textures that looked like a ‘fashion read’ of Panthalassa and Tectonic plaques altogether.And it worked.Especially because Katranzou is talented enough to deliver such a strong concept in subtle almost traditionally strict forms-skirts,tops and simple dresses,nothing elaborate in generic design.But the garments were vivid,mind blowing, where alive,innovating and at the same time highly wearable.Shall i say more?

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Actor Damian Lewis and model Eliza Cummings star in the Autumn/Winter 2014 Aquascutum campaign.

The Acquascutum campaign is lensed by Alasdair McLellan with styling by Jane How marking the 100th anniversary of the trench coat originally created-from the first waterproof wool fabric pioneered by the founder of the  British brand.

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‘Formal Order’-Erik Madigan Heck lenses Kirsten Owen for Muse Magazine #32 Fall 2014

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Marios Schwab Spring 2015 Ready-to-Wear-in Marios we trust!

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They claim there’s a film-noir elements in Schwab’s collection in the bast,so the new one should have some dark elements. Nop!Like it or not the collection was a lesson in avant garde tailoring and the essence of umber chic with a twist.This season,Schwab’s idea seems to be the re-constructive process and the exploration of  strict, tailor made outfits.And it worked.It was so refreshing to view all items us women mostly use,presented us as never before, pushing thus the boundaries between casual chic and.. hardcore chic.The result?Interesting,floating items,redesigned jackets as well as making references to ancient Greek dressing manners-interesting!Let alone all the process of actually de-constructive using old patterns-turn new, along with flawless and almost new!I’d love to see more black’s actually but i can wait till next season,i swear i will!

 

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Marc Jacobs Spring 2015 Ready-to-Wear-Uniformed forms

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Marc Jacobs’ show had many similarities with his previous presentations while in the head of Vouis Vuitton-grande,powerful yet megalomaniac.I wont go into the bubble colored 3-d space or into the so-called  ‘sound wall'(by D.Dre) that each participant had to ‘experience’ through headphones-so old in terms of performing arts.With the main subject being the idea of ‘uniform’,the whole show went towards the aesthetic version of a uniformed individual-woman,missing the actual semiotic richness of the idea. Jacobs told Style.com’s Nicole Phelps, that the whole violin accompanied  narrated text was “to put everybody in their own world.” But..which world?

The collections main concept was sexualized uniforms-in that he did well.Khaki, brown,teal uniforms,the military jacket reviewed,utility pants etc.It has been proved in the past that each historic period defined by the essence of military alert,fashion collections tend to follow up,this was not an exception.’Military clothes are part of the fashion vernacular now,” Jacobs  said.It has been there ages before.But,honestly now,military skater pants?Defined waists in khaki uniform buttoned up outfits?And why did  the pants had to be so ill-fitting?And what about those rather long uniform jackets?Ok there where some looks that i would keep and of course great accessories but the rest of the ‘sexualized uniform’ is a task that perhaps Galliano could do it and get away with it.Marc Jacobs made efforts to showcase an ironic ‘regard’ to the whole essence of american militarism. It ended up being an irony to himself.Sorry.

 

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NYFW:Backstage frenzy captured by photographer Sam Hessamian

No matter how boring or exciting this New York Fashion Week were,backstage photos reveal the creative frenzy before each runway show.Sam Hessamian is an exceptional photographer anyway,let alone his photography coverage (diary) of NYFW shows.Enjoy.

Anna Wintour at the Public School show at Milk

Anna Wintour at the Public School show at Milk

Backstage at Chromat yesterday at The Standard

Backstage at Chromat yesterday at The Standard

Backstage at Jill Stuart

Backstage at Jill Stuart

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Backstage at Jill Stuart

Backstage at Robert Geller

Backstage at Robert Geller

Backstage at Yigal Azrouel

Backstage at Yigal Azrouel

James Goldstein last night at the Gareth Pugh  Lexus Design Presentation

James Goldstein last night at the Gareth Pugh Lexus Design Presentation

will.i.am of the Black Eyed Peas and Andre Leon Talley at the Public School show at Milk

will.i.am of the Black Eyed Peas and Andre Leon Talley at the Public School show at Milk

Xiaowen backstage at Peter Som.

Xiaowen backstage at Peter Som

Many thanks to Sam Hessamian for the backstage images above. Do check his fantastic photography work at http://cargocollective.com/samhessamian